Bleach has fooked my alloy hub Tuff's....

[Mattdub]

Keep going Martin , it looks as though they'll come back 

[funkyfresh]

i think i'll carry on with a scourer then? the pitting need smoothing out more...

BTW,

if i manage to lay my hands on some replacemnt flanges, has anyone had them re-riveted, rather than using bolts?

or i was wondering about using bolts, but with some sort of cap to cover the bolt head and nut? did a qucik search on the forums, but no joy?

My mate works for a machineing company..he might be persuded to re-make some rivets for me, if there is someone who can actually do the riveting part?

[fouronethreeoh!]

Theoretically riveting is just hitting it with a hammer.
Could be done fairly easily i should think, if your mate could knock up some more rivets.
Keep an eye out on ebay for replacement flanges, they do crop up.

[trasher]

mate keep with the wet and dry ,through the grades then some autosol ,,believe me i know its mind numbing
but its just took me six hours a wheel to rub down some tuffs with the wet and dry ,but the outcome is priceless

my last resort would be to replace the hubs ,,,id sooner fill the pitting and spray with some enamle  silver spray 

all the best with the outcome dude 

[billstup]

I wouldn`t worry too much about the freewheel side, just put an 18t freewheel on like was mentioned earlier in the thread and it should cover the flange anyway 

[Spen69]

18t will cover it easy, 17t shimano in nice shiny silver will do though.

I'd agree with Joe on the freewheel solution. The absolute last thing you want to do is drill them out as the value plumets like a stone mate, so keep them original. I wouldn't go as far an 18T though as it will be unridable (unless they're going on a show pony)

What freewheel did you take off? I'm asking as I discovered one of my set arrived with a silver 17T Shimano on them. I'll happily send it to you to try it and if you think it covers enough for you to be happy with them. You can send me a 16T replacement of similar condition - not a "non-branded" one if you get what I mean though

If it helps, just let me know fella.

Spen

[funkyfresh]

Spen,

thats very kind of you...I have a NOS 16t Shimano freewheel that came of the wheels, if you want to trade?

i'm not sure how much bigger the 17t will be? I just measured the distance, tooth tip to tooth tip across the widest part, and its 71mm...

ta

Martin

[funkyfresh]

the side that is OK, i.e. quite polished, would look better if it had the "satin" effect that the normal flanges have, if was being picky.

can that be achieved somehow?

[Mattdub]

the side that is OK, i.e. quite polished, would look better if it had the "satin" effect that the normal flanges have, if was being picky.

can that be achieved somehow?

A type of light scouring pad my dull it down ok  .

[funkyfresh]

i think i might find some bit of alloy to practice on 1st then...given my skill levels!   

[Spen69]

Spen,

thats very kind of you...I have a NOS 16t Shimano freewheel that came of the wheels, if you want to trade?

i'm not sure how much bigger the 17t will be? I just measured the distance, tooth tip to tooth tip across the widest part, and its 71mm...

ta

Martin

I'll try and get a chance to measure it when I get home tonight Martin and pm you mate. I'm happy to send it to you and if it doesn't do the trick, you can send it back no worries. It's not NOS but it's clean enough mate, but we'll chat later.

Spen

[HUTCHMAN]

i know it's probably a stupid idea,but what about getting the pitting "leaded"like they used to do in the old days with car bodywork.obviously would have to be VERY careful with the heat,but it's easy to sand down and will polish up good.

[Spen69]

Martin - didn't get a chance to dive intot he shed to measure the sproket last night mate - late home, baby crying, wife knackered etc etc.... I'll do it tonight with a bit of luck and send you a pic if I get a chance.

Spen

[Glynnyboy]

As a few others have said, the grades of wet and dry is a mind numbing job but it will start to happen. The thing is with it being a hub it's awkward to get into so it feels like your getting no where. Just resign your self to chipping away a bit at a time. I did this with wet n dry and a lot of patience, didn't use the dremel until the last bit just to polish. What you have to remember about polishing is that, because the alloy has different strength metals in. Polishing will just polish and leave the pits, the surface has to be flatted 1st.


These are made of steel and a lot harder to rub down manually than alloy. It's just time and don't loose heart just yet.

[Spen69]

i'm not sure how much bigger the 17t will be? I just measured the distance, tooth tip to tooth tip across the widest part, and its 71mm...

Martin - it's 76mm across the tips of the teeth mate, so 5mm overall bigger. If you want to try it, let me know but I will try and get a pic with it on a Tuff flange as I have a spare one somewhere, I just need to find it

Spen

[funkyfresh]

Spen,

sorry meant to reply back yesterday... been manic myself, an i havent got a baby!...just a nagging missues, but aint we all

i'll PM you my address, and if you do the same, i'll send my 16t to you?

sound good?

M

[Spen69]

No worries Martin

PM me your address and wait till mine arrives. If it's what you want and you're happy with the result, send me your 16T back. I'm in no rush as BMX takes a back seat at the minute (see previous post re: screaming child )

If you manage to polish out the hub and want to keep your 16T, no worries, just send mine back - just trying to help out a fellow rider

Cheers

Spen

[funkyfresh]

ah Guys,

thanks for all your comments and help. Especially Spen who has made me a very kind offer...

Thats what this site's all about, and I love it for that reason!

cheers

Big love going out

 

M