Tange MX 2 reissue

[Chilli Rinse]

Hi guys, hope you’re all well. I bought a reissue Tange  MX 2 with the motocross stamping last year. Fitted it a while ago and I’ve only just bought and received them stem for my build today so thought I’d fit it. Nope, the lock nut won’t slip up the shaft of the stem further than a third. Tried gently drifting it up as the stem is 80’s and has a few scored rings  from previous fitting. It was greased too.  No joy. Tried another 80’s generic lock nut which slipped straight over.  Has anybody else had the same issue with these headsets Or is it just my bad luck ?  Looks like I’ve now got to fork out for another 80’s headset, which is what I wanted but none were up for sale at the time. Not happy  By the way, standard shaft and headset sizing.
Thanks

[Chilli Rinse]

I just checked the lock nut on a sr jellybean, tioga task force, nitto Mx 5 and Suntour broken arrow. It slipped on them all lovely.
The shaft on the stem in question is straight and stamped 0.833. That’s standard, right ?

[CustardLips]

Try loosening the lock nut, drop the stem in... tighten the lock nut. 

Had the same problem myself before now... worked for me. 

[Chilli Rinse]

Thanks Nick, I’ll have another go tomorrow. I did take the nut off completely and tried to drift it on the shaft off of the bike. Same result

[Taipan]

I've had a couple of the re issue's that the threads on the top nut were no good? could have just been unlucky and had some Friday afternoon one's but never had a problem like you mention? Let us know how you get on tomoz with the above method 

[Chilli Rinse]

No joy, it doesn’t want to be a part of this build     Rather than bugger the shaft on then stem and the chrome on the nut I’ll take the headset off and save for another build. No more repop for me except grips and tyres etc, 80’s all the way. There’s a well used Tange mx600 on eBay but £50   we’ll see 

[Taipan]

Have you got another nut you can use fella?

[Chilli Rinse]

I have but I didn’t want to mix and match new and old. I’ve got a generic unstamped headset but wanted something a little nicer for the build. I should have waited for a nice used one as it will be mostly a rider parts build. I’ve got a nos tioga headset but that is for a future build. I’m skint for a bit so will have a look when funds allow. Keep a look out on the wanted section soon 😜 I still need another couple of bits too so no rush on this one.

[Picklez]

Does the top nut have to be chrome? I have a repo Tange 320 top nut you're more than welcome to, to try, but it's silver alloy finish 

PM me your address if it's any good to you. 

[Chilli Rinse]

Thanks for the offer, you’re a cool Radster for sure  It was chrome or black tbh. The bike is chrome with gold accents an a bit of black. So I’m going to get a black nos lock nut and see if it works best with the repop which is silky smooth or the unknown 80’s headset. Thanks again and sorry to knock you back 




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[Picklez]

No worries buddy, you're more than welcome.

Good luck with the lock nut route & let us know how you get on. You're right about one thing with those repo headsets though, they do spin silky smooth. The 320 I have has needle rollers, you can really do it up so tight, and it still spins and spins forever - damn, I wish we'd had that tech BITD.

[Chilli Rinse]

I will definitely let you know how it turns out for sure. Needle rollers do sound like a proper upgrade 

[Chilli Rinse]

The Landar head lock arrived today and it slips over the shaft of the stem nicely 👍🏼
As I’ve never used a head lock I have one question... I guess I leave the headsets keyed washer in place ? The only reason I ask is when it’s left on the top of the head lock is sitting higher than the top of the fork steerer.

Thanks

[Picklez]

That's great news. Afraid I'm not personally 100% regards the keyed washer, whenever I've run lock nuts previously it's been with bear trap type washers and I've left them in place and not worried about the fact that the lock nut sits a little higher. But they're Hutch lock nuts that clamp at the bottom more like a seat post clamp. I'd probably say that if the club screws are going to 'bite' into the steerer securely with the washer in place then run it, but if you're concerned they're a bit too near to the top of the steerer tube then loose it. Hope that makes sense 

[Chilli Rinse]

Yes that makes perfect sense. Thank you. I’ll fit it properly tomorrow and see how high up the steerer the grub screws are. Thanks again 

[Chilli Rinse]

Update... the grub screws are low enough down the steerer to work. Swapped the black out for gold. Only finger tight without grub screws but I'm waiting on a few other bits so will wait... feeling lazy.