Author Topic: Skyway hub repair / coaster assembly diagram? (Read 2735 times)

duncan · « **on:** July 18, 2006, 09:02 PM »

I got hold of a pair of alloy hubbed freewheel Skyways.
The rear is free from cracks, but unfortunately whoever had them before decided to seriously overtighten the cones, and the hubs are collapsed inwards.
This wheel is basically unusable as the two hubs do not even line up (due to a bent axle that was being run previously).

The front looks good, but on close inspection it too has a slight inward bend on one side of the hub, again from cone over-tightening.
I'd like to save this wheel, but cannot see any way to straighten the hub flush with the wheel (at least without removing the rivets).
I thought about inserting a thin bar from the other side and hammering the hub back to shape, but to do the job properly would probably require some sort of hydraulic press.
I'd also risk cracking the plastic surrounding the rivets. I think I'll have to live with the defect, or buy a new pair!

I got another set, plastic hubbed front which was cracked (threw it out) and a rear with coaster brake. In my enthusiasm I stripped it apart, and have some parts sitting in rust remover.
I've rebuilt these before (sometimes more successfully than other times) but I was hoping someone may have a link to a diagram of how the parts fit into place.

With any luck I'll be able to make one working pair from the wheels I have.
(Though to be honest I'm thinking to heck with it and buy a new pair - it's a lot of bother)

lazychubs · « **Reply #1 on:** July 18, 2006, 09:08 PM »

someone on here made a jig to pull the hubs out
i used a big drift to straighten mine

BrianP · « **Reply #2 on:** July 18, 2006, 09:11 PM »

hey duncan,

just finished rebuilding a suntour coaster hub myself on monday past, (was the spoked hub version, but the internals are exactly the same).

on the "links" page within www.flatlandfuel.com at the top of the list is a link for "freecoaster maintenance".
click on this link and then on the link to a "suntour diagram" and this should give you all the info you need for rebuilding the coaster assembly.

hope this helps,

Bp.

duncan · « **Reply #3 on:** July 18, 2006, 09:30 PM »

I'll maybe try a drift, I imagine you need to support the rivets on a flat surface so you don't knock the hub clean out of the wheel if the plastic breaks though.

Brian, thanks for the link, the info and pics there are just what I need.
I see I have a 'Type III', I spent ages looking for a 4th brake shoe when I only had 3 (bits went awol when I pulled it apart..)

That part which includes the slot and dogs, is it welded to the axle?
I took everything off, but that one last big casting seems pretty secure on the axle. I just wondered what can be done if an axle ever bends?
Maybe it is removeable, I'll just need to 'persuade' it

BrianP · « **Reply #4 on:** July 18, 2006, 09:36 PM »

no probs mate,

and yeah, that other bit does come off. it's threaded like the cones, etc.

I replaced the original axle with a Standard Industries one I got on ebay, and ended up gripping the middle portion of the original axle in a set of vice grips and using a spanner on the end of that bit where the anchoring arm fits on. it marked it a bit, but i was getting shot of that axle anyway.

did that make any sense?

Bp.

duncan · « **Reply #5 on:** July 18, 2006, 09:46 PM »

Perfect sense, I used vice grips in the middle as you did to remove all the other cones and nuts.
That last piece just looked like it was cast round the axle, but I'll get it removed now that I know.

I see what you mean about the anchoring arm part, I can get a cone spanner on there but it's hard to get much leverage without it slipping off. A soak in wd-40 called for I think.

Rombloke · « **Reply #6 on:** July 19, 2006, 07:46 PM »

somthing i knocked up on the drawing board ealier...hope this helps

Dave

BrianP · « **Reply #7 on:** July 19, 2006, 10:21 PM »

they're really like the ones i used for info!

Bp.

duncan · « **Reply #8 on:** July 20, 2006, 10:35 PM »

Thanks for the help everyone, some parts are still sitting in rust remover, and the wheel has to be bleached yet, but those diagrams will be very handy.