RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: highrisedrifter on June 02, 2007, 06:43 PM
-
Hi
I have two problems with my headset.
The first is there's quite a bit of play there. THE forks/bars move back and forth in the headtube. I guess that's just a matter of tightening up the headset. Is that right?
Second, the stem won't come out of the headtube when the stem bolt is loosened, nor will it move to allow me to line up the wheel with the bars. I've tried gently tapping it with a rubber mallet and then twatting it in frustratin when nothing happened ;D Still nothing though. Any tips please?
Cheers
HRD
-
a few things mate.....
the play in the headset could just be tightening....but was the bearing race snug on the forks? if it wasn't and there is play there, then you can tighten the headset up as much as you like it'll still move!
The stem? sounds like it's just stuck in there, take the bolt out then stand infront of the bike with your legs either side of the front wheel. press your knees against the wheel and turn the bars! it will free up with a snap!
when you put it back just apply a little grease :daumenhoch:
-
Thanks Pickle
There was no play in the forks. I need to get myself a damn big spanner to fit the headset then as I've not got a specific one. I'll see if Halfrauds have them.
I was hoping the stem was just stuck. I've tried moving the bars but it's just not happening, i'll give it another go once I've had a beer. :LolLolLolLol:
I'll remember to grease the headtube up though when I do manager it. Thanks. I hadn't thought of that. ::)
HRD
-
Clean and grease the wedge also ;)
-
Thanks Pickle
There was no play in the forks. I need to get myself a damn big spanner to fit the headset then as I've not got a specific one. I'll see if Halfrauds have them.
I was hoping the stem was just stuck. I've tried moving the bars but it's just not happening, i'll give it another go once I've had a beer. :LolLolLolLol:
I'll remember to grease the headtube up though when I do manager it. Thanks. I hadn't thought of that. ::)
HRD
A spanner big enough for the headset nut will cost you! i use a pair of grips that can expand (not a clue what they're called?? like pliers but bigger and can move inwards and outwards?? i get em from B&Q for £2.99 and they work a treat! just remember to use a rag around the nut so not to mark it :daumenhoch:
-
They have many names.... Water pump pliers, parrot nosed pliers, 5 hole pliers..... If by chance the nut is 32mm then it is a popular automotive size and you can buy that spanner in a skinny variation like you want for not much money at all. I can't remember now what its for, but you'll find it on the wall of your local car spares shop :)
-
Mole Grips?
-
Nope. Mole grips or vice grips are the locking plier type things. What pickle is on about is a much bigger tool altogether. The set I have could grip something 100mm across......
They have what looks like a slot in them that allows the jaws to slide back and forth for smaller or larger jobs. :)
-
i'm on about these.....
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/b339/robertbransby/ist2_40651_grips.jpg)
-
Water pump pliers or Swan Neck Grips, best to invest in a proper sized spanner to save stripping the chrome and leaving unsightly marks :daumenhoch:
When you took the stem bolt out did the wedge drop to the bottom of the forks? If not the wedge will be holding the stem in place, to loosen it you will need to screw the stem bolt back in until about 5 to 10mm is proud of the stem and using a block of wood to protect the stem over the bolt whack the wood with a hammer to drop the wedge out of place and the stem will them be loose for removal :daumenhoch:.
-
Buy a new bike ;)
-
Buy a new bike ;)
:LolLolLolLol:
-
Buy a new bike ;)
Yeah you're right. The headset problem is only on an old Haro gen 1. It's over 20 years old for god's sake. Time I binned it I reckon. :2gunsfiring_v1: :2gunsfiring_v1:
:2funny:
HRD
-
When you took the stem bolt out did the wedge drop to the bottom of the forks? If not the wedge will be holding the stem in place, to loosen it you will need to screw the stem bolt back in until about 5 to 10mm is proud of the stem and using a block of wood to protect the stem over the bolt whack the wood with a hammer to drop the wedge out of place and the stem will them be loose for removal :daumenhoch:.
Now I feel silly..... Surely loosening the bolt 5-10mm then whacking it down to loosen the wedge is the normal way to do it?
-
When you took the stem bolt out did the wedge drop to the bottom of the forks? If not the wedge will be holding the stem in place, to loosen it you will need to screw the stem bolt back in until about 5 to 10mm is proud of the stem and using a block of wood to protect the stem over the bolt whack the wood with a hammer to drop the wedge out of place and the stem will them be loose for removal :daumenhoch:.
Nope, bolt stayed where it was I think. I'll give your suggestion a go tomorrow and see how I do. Thanks
HRD
-
Buy a new bike ;)
Yeah you're right. The headset problem is only on an old Haro gen 1. It's over 20 years old for god's sake. Time I binned it I reckon. :2gunsfiring_v1: :2gunsfiring_v1:
:2funny:
HRD
I'll take it off your hands.............For free, no waste disposal fee's/stress . Can't say fairer than that :daumenhoch:
-
When you took the stem bolt out did the wedge drop to the bottom of the forks? If not the wedge will be holding the stem in place, to loosen it you will need to screw the stem bolt back in until about 5 to 10mm is proud of the stem and using a block of wood to protect the stem over the bolt whack the wood with a hammer to drop the wedge out of place and the stem will them be loose for removal :daumenhoch:.
Now I feel silly..... Surely loosening the bolt 5-10mm then whacking it down to loosen the wedge is the normal way to do it?
Should be the normal way but having worked in a bike shop for a lot of my life you would be surprised how many people don't think you need to loosen the wedge itself and just take out the stem bolt :LolLolLolLol:.
-
I'll take it off your hands.............For free, no waste disposal fee's/stress . Can't say fairer than that :daumenhoch:
You'd do that for me? Wow, that's really generous of you.
See? Rad members are the best! :daumenhoch:
Oh wait... my other half tells me that she's just put an axe through it. Oh well. Easy come, easy go. :(
:LolLolLolLol:
HRD
-
:2funny: :2funny:
-
When you took the stem bolt out did the wedge drop to the bottom of the forks? If not the wedge will be holding the stem in place, to loosen it you will need to screw the stem bolt back in until about 5 to 10mm is proud of the stem and using a block of wood to protect the stem over the bolt whack the wood with a hammer to drop the wedge out of place and the stem will them be loose for removal :daumenhoch:.
You're right in that the wedge is 'wedged' there. It's not dropping out when the bolt is removed.
I've tried your suggestion of leaving the stem bolt proud by 5-10mil and hitting it with a hammer (after covering it), No dice. Nothing. Nada. Zip. It's still stuck fast and won't budge.
Any more ideas please mate? I want to get this fooking thing out. :)
Cheers
HRD
-
Lots and lots of light oil down there. Not WD40 as it evaporates a bit too quick. 3 in 1 or even engine oil. Have the thing upside down and run some oil in that way. Leave it for a good while (a day or two) then remove the front wheel (if its on) and rest the forks on a block of timber. That way when you beat it with a hammer non of the force is absorbed by the tyre..
Then its just good old brute force and ignorance. Be prepared to sacrifice your stembolt and wedge. If you're protecting the stembolt with timber when you're hitting it, get rid of that, you need to transmit as much hammer power as possible. On that note, upgrade to a clubhammer if you haven't already.
Then hit it hard....
Best I can think of right now I'm afraid :)
-
:LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol:
Thanks mate. I like twatting things hard anyway. I'll leave it for a while with the oil in, in the hopes that it seeps where it needs to go and I don't have to hit it hard, first.
HRD
-
Then its just good old brute force and ignorance. Be prepared to sacrifice your stembolt and wedge. If you're protecting the stembolt with timber when you're hitting it, get rid of that, you need to transmit as much hammer power as possible. On that note, upgrade to a clubhammer if you haven't already.
Then hit it hard....
:LolLolLolLol: You beat me to it - 4lb ball pein or mallet straight on the stem bolt - no messing :LolLolLolLol:
-
i turn the bike upside down ,i put a long wratchet extention bar in the bottom of the fork hole
and bash it big styley they always pop out.
-
Yeah, that sounds like a good idea. :daumenhoch:
-
i have found in the past the wedge can drop or get caught on the wonk
when it slips a touch into the down tube hole inside the head stock.
-
Actually, in the dim distant annals of my past I think thats happened to me. Twisted wedge and a bloody nightmare. Although Mr. Clubby did eventually sort it out ;D
-
If the stem bolt screws in then hopefully the wedge it's twisted.
I like the idea of turning the forks upside down and poking something through the bottom of the folks and wacking it. This hopefully will get the wedge out the way it went in. Could you screw the stem bolt in the bottom of the wedge. ie poke that through the bottom of the forks?. If you can you have at least a secure bolt to wack.
-
you will strip the thread in a second flat any good piece of metal that will reach will do then bash big time.
-
sometimes constantly light tapping wil also dislodge them, i had one stuck in when i was a kid, belted it with a club hammer and beat my stem to feck aswell, my dad came along and lightly tapped for about a minute, the stem just released, its worked for me when doing my cars in the past too