Post by: Connors on July 24, 2016, 07:25 PM
.I've restored a 1995 Diamondback Reactor and for a first time I'm pleased with results. I've replaced bearings in the bottom bracket (working well) and the front hub (also spinning nicely) but the bloody threaded headset is driving me insane!!!!
The bearings were knackered and easily got replacements. Have watched literally dozens of how to guides on YouTube but try as I might I cannot get to that wonderful place where there is no play but also no stiffness in the steering.
The one thing that does seem unusual compared to every diagram I've seen and video watched is that instead of a slotted washer I have a threaded washer that goes on after the adjustable race and before the locknut. Not sure if that is meant to be tightened to same degree as adjustable race or up really tight like the lock nut.
I'm as certain as I can be that the bearings are in correct and the races don't look uneven or pitted but admittedly I'm no expert.
Any advice or suggestions very welcome before I admit defeat and take to LBS??
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: deeman on August 10, 2016, 02:41 PM
Post by: Connors on August 12, 2016, 01:59 PM
I should have put a piccie on first time around and I will do so via tapatalk.
Bike is currently with friendly LBS owner who offered to take a look. By own admission he is no old school guru but like me he is a bit stumped as no matter how he tightens one ride around the block and the play comes back.
When I say threaded washer it is a very thin nut that is like a mini threaded race that sits between the actual threaded race and the lock nut! I've purchased a couple of headsets from ebay and Alans BMX as was considering a full replacement but they are too small!
Its a shame as bike has come on nicely for a first attempt but would be nice to ride it now :-)
Pics to follow - would appreciate any further input!
Cheers
Post by: pickle on August 12, 2016, 03:18 PM