RADBMX.CO.UK
BMX General => BMX Chat => Topic started by: Gnarlyscoots on August 03, 2013, 09:25 PM
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Right guys. I have been thinking about this for a good while now and I think I will be going ahead with it so all your help and assistance will be vital :coolsmiley:
I will be looking to build a freestyle frame and fork. What I would like you do for this part is list your favourite features from the old school freestyle frames and fork for some of them to be used on this. i.e I like the fork standers on the Trickstar fork, down low and thick tubing.
I would like you to keep things simple and please don't go off track and fill the thread with needless posts but please add pics too :daumenhoch:
Firstly, it will be made from 4130 cro-moly with a NS geometry. What are your opinions on Braised or Tig welding? Which is the best and most economical to get done?
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Also, should I run a mid BB or US BB ???
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Sound like just my thing Terry. Who have you found to do it? I looked into it a while ago and while there are a fair few people who will make you a frame it always came in between 550 - 650 for a freestyler so i could never really justify the risk that my designs would ride well :'(
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Was my sort of thinking at the time :daumenhoch:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4952039371_ea7895810b_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/4952039241_fee5978e38_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4952274637_5087388652_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/4952274693_a725649b74_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4953842959_290092a6f4_b.jpg)
The one continuous tube either side was the stumbling block but i did find a few places willing to take it on :daumenhoch:
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I think if you are getting a fabricactor to do it and is 'new school' he might not be able to use OA and do fillet brazing.
A braised frame looks the dogs but having said that if you get someone that's the dogs on a tig the welds look stunning.
Brazing may cost more as there's a bit more time involved.
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Also, should I run a mid BB or US BB ???
MID is a definite progression on the US BB that's what I'd use.
I'd also be thinking about disc brakes, not kidding either :LolLolLolLol:
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I remember that Clint :daumenhoch:
I was chatting to one of the engineers at work today about welding etc etc and one thing led to another with hinself basically saying to me he knows a good few skilled guys in the trade and sure that I could get something knocked up :daumenhoch:
He is going to have a chat with a friend of his for me so we shall see Clinty baby :) As for geometry mate, I will just take a NS frame set and use that. It's just a matter of finding something that is suitable to my height. I would definately like twin top or bottom tubes and maybe something different with the rear setup.
I think I can get either braised or Tig, it's just a matter of what is stronger and better longevity.
Disc brakes are a no go bro unluss I can get them to run round the centre of the hubs ;D I just couldn't imagine trying an endo to peg foot plant and slicing my shin down the disc to be honest :D Besides, Kappy has already done that.
I will be going back to a good old fashioned 990 on the rear somewhere and have a think about something to put on the front.
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You could do with having a few rides on other members new school stuff at a lock in or summat Terry and see what suits you :daumenhoch: I have ridden quite a few recently and the only one i clicked with straight away way our kids subrossa ddt.
I literally got on it rode up a ramp and dropped in like i had been riding it for years and trust me that aint like me, i like a good half hour or so getting the feel for something before i get the bottle to do owt :daumenhoch:
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ask standard to make it ,they will do it.
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That may be a good starting point to be honest mate. I want to put a few old school touches to it though like Hutch fork standers, Curtis rear frame standers, 990 rear mounts with cables running internally. Stuff like that mate so, I thought I would ask everyone to get some pics up of their favourite parts.
I really like the Curtis rear stands -
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/pp267/nevje_photos/Finished%20Curtis%20Freestyler/freestyler4.jpg) (http://media.photobucket.com/user/nevje_photos/media/Finished%20Curtis%20Freestyler/freestyler4.jpg.html)
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ask standard to make it ,they will do it.
I will get on to them too, thanks :daumenhoch:
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and make it long 8) ... with an assassin feel to it,
if that could work in a fs way, that is
dunno, this frame is just so super sexy
http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,109947.msg1079209.html#msg1079209
otherwise 20/II is always a good benchmark , sexyness wise.
sorry, please continue :yahoo_silent:
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Hope your feeling flush Terry the problem with having a custom frame is the temptation to have custom parts too :-X
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The problem is with the Curtis rear hoops is that your heals keep catching them as you ride which is not good at all. I had a Curtis freestyler but couldn't bloody ride the thing.
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the temptation to have custom parts too :-X
:LolLolLolLol: Thats you all over Clint :D
Florian, not my cup of tea mate, sorry. It's an SE :D ;D
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The problem is with the Curtis rear hoops is that your heals keep catching them as you ride which is not good at all. I had a Curtis freestyler but couldn't bloody ride the thing.
Great info mate, thanks. This is the stuff I am after, experience and first hand issues. I can maybe re-think the position of them and the length of the rear stays too with this info :)
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Don't worry about forks bro, I have those Gregg Melms custom made 1-1/8" forks like Bottemas :coolsmiley:
Go euro bb, steep head tube, long front and shlammed back end. Not too high on the bb and make it look old school.
Oh. That would be my Retro goose :LolLolLolLol:
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Terry, just remembered i thought about getting a mock up made from copper pipe just to get a feel for things. Its relatively cheap, easily sourced, bent and soldered.
I know from experience you can design stuff on a computer till the cows come home but there is no substituting having it there in the flesh and i think the extra cost would be worth it for the piece of mind of knowing you are getting exactly what you want. Its also handy for checking clearances etc.:daumenhoch:
I had a lovely looking design for my new brake system but when i got a prototype body laser cut out of plastic i found it was catching the crank arms slightly. Reducing it enough to be sure it would clear any crank used meant a partial rejig of the internal mechanism ::)
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The problem is with the Curtis rear hoops is that your heals keep catching them as you ride which is not good at all. I had a Curtis freestyler but couldn't bloody ride the thing.
Great info mate, thanks. This is the stuff I am after, experience and first hand issues. I can maybe re-think the position of them and the length of the rear stays too with this info :)
:daumenhoch:
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get a kappa.... ;)