Author Topic: Turbo Crank Arms Stuck (Read 2038 times)

FuNMoNsTeR · « **on:** February 04, 2006, 04:50 PM »

Its probably been asked a billion squillion times but here goes.
I have managed to strip the undersea Harry Leary Turbo down except for the cranks. For starters the crank caps had oxidised so bad inside that i had to pick them out piece by piece(3 days arsing about). I finally got to the nuts and have removed them so the non drive side crank arm should be free to come off, but it doesn't seem to want to. I have soaked it in WD-40 and spent long hours talking to it, saying how i am going to lovingly polish it and then get it recoated etc... I have even resorted to violence with a thor hammer and even harsh language but the crank arm is adamant that it is not going to budge. I have also tried tightening the threaded spindle hex nuts to it and trying to force it off that way... nothing. Do you reckon boiling water on the crank arm will expand it enough to shift it if i whack it with the Thor hammer? I cant see boiling water damaging anything but i thought i had better check

Any ideas would be much appreciated

The Turbo looks good underneath all that crud. The faded smoked chrome layer has protected the original chrome finish so it should polish up real nice.... Same with the cranks, they still have the original decals on

I got the seatpost out without any probs and its a real Turbo one...yehaaaw. The kashi 5 gold will be a challenge tho as the rails are badly corroded(any ideas?). Bars will look great when polished. brakes still have the chrome on underneath a film of dirt. I just need to get these cranks off so i can get down to the fun part of polishing

Cheers Guys.... another update in a couple of weeks

lazychubs · « **Reply #1 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:06 PM »

diesel is good but havent clue how you will soak em in it lol
could try laying it on its side and filling bolt hole full of it

Waxintaxin · « **Reply #2 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:48 PM »

buy a crank puller , this will remove crank arms lovingly and properly

Rich

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #3 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:50 PM »

Diesel bath... i could try that...lay the frame on its side with the crank arm in a tray of diesel.... wheres my syphon.
cheers m8

lazychubs · « **Reply #4 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:50 PM »

yeah forgot that one lol thats wot we used to get daves flights of the rl
plus a big hammer to shock it

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:51 PM »

crank arm puller..... i will look for one...cheers m8

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2006, 05:53 PM »

i have a lump hammer and it was suggested that i needed to shock the arm to break the corrosion weld between the arm and the spindle. I was told that it wouldn't do any damage but i just couldnt bring myself to hit the arm with anything other than a softish Thor hammer

billstup · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2006, 06:21 PM »

Like Rich said, get a crank puller, thats what they`re made for

danny silverstreak · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2006, 06:25 PM »

get the gas bottles out

lazychubs · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2006, 06:57 PM »

wots a thor hammer lol
lead hammer is good as it doesnt mark the chrome

Rombloke · « **Reply #10 on:** February 04, 2006, 07:08 PM »

do these cranks the justice they deserve, they are exactly the same set up as my 400's, square tapered spindle...get a crank puller, rhys got my ones off a bike with his one and they were stuck 'good'.

take your time.....and good luck, the diesel will deffo help

Dave

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #11 on:** February 04, 2006, 07:16 PM »

Nice one guys

.... Diesel bath and crank puller it is. I may have already buggered the crank cap threads on the none drive crank arm already but my mate says it can be retapped...we will see.

sawzall · « **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2006, 08:47 PM »

just had a look at the saddle pics you sent me and the only way i can see you are going to remove seat frame is to carefully cut away plastic where frame is moulded in allowing you to remove frame, you may get away with doing either front or back and sliding the other end out not sure if poss as i have never done it before, then rechrome frame and carefully re install using industrial 2 pack adhesive which is available in black and can be shaped,

we use it at work to stick on car panels etc so its plenty strong enough

lazychubs · « **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2006, 08:50 PM »

or windscreen glue as you can cut and sand it when dry
app as me mate used to use it to repair series one bumpers

sawzall · « **Reply #14 on:** February 04, 2006, 08:58 PM »

the only problem with windscreen adhesive is its semi rigid and does not go hard !!!!!!!!!

lazychubs · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2006, 09:49 PM »

high mod does you try and cut the stuff in this weather lol

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2006, 10:25 PM »

A donor rail eh...smart idea. I will look into that cheers guys

danny silverstreak · « **Reply #17 on:** February 04, 2006, 10:29 PM »

Quote from: sawzall on February 04, 2006, 08:58 PM

the only problem with windscreen adhesive is its semi rigid and does not go hard !!!!!!!!!

unlike me then

mcnab916 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 04, 2006, 11:17 PM »

IF YOU STILL HAVNT GOT THE CRANKS OFF TRY, PLUS GAS, ITS A RELEASING AGENT WORKS BETTER THAN WD 40 OR DIESEL. MOST CAR ACCESORIE SHOPS SELL IT, GOOD LUCK.

sawzall · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2006, 09:31 AM »

Quote from: danny silverstreak on February 04, 2006, 10:29 PM

Quote from: sawzall on February 04, 2006, 08:58 PM
the only problem with windscreen adhesive is its semi rigid and does not go hard !!!!!!!!!

unlike me then

theRuler · « **Reply #20 on:** February 05, 2006, 09:55 AM »

heat
tip a kettle of boiling water on the crank arm
the ali will expand quicker than the steel spindle
then see if you can tug it off, or knock it off with wood and hammer

failing that try a crank puller, but be careful it doesnt put gouges in the arm

ORB · « **Reply #21 on:** February 05, 2006, 10:52 AM »

Derv is the best releasing agent there is.

To get the arms off, a crank puller is about the only decent and reliable way to do it.

Dont buy one of them 1.99 ones from the ebay, i snapped one in a matter of seconds on a set of Sugino crankage.

Go to a cycle shop and buy a half decent one.

Hot water will also help.

theRuler · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2006, 12:41 PM »

try the hot water first
then give some licks with a hammer and drift
once the seal breaks it will fly off

FuNMoNsTeR · « **Reply #23 on:** February 05, 2006, 06:51 PM »

Cheers m8... I have ordered the plus gas off ebay. I am also looking for a crank puller. Its the square tapered spline one i want yes and not the osiris?(whatever that is).
My polisher should be here Monday i will let you know what its like... i got it on Ebay from a guy in Wales its called a Lapidary set and comes in a case. Its ideal for polishing small areas etc.