Author Topic: Fitting Headsets (Read 651 times)

gareth1978 · « **on:** March 22, 2008, 02:08 PM »

ive got three builds on the go and have never fitted a headset before

can anybody help me please

Rombloke · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2008, 02:21 PM »

big hammer

Dave

djgivvinup · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2008, 02:27 PM »

With the right tools, fitting a headset should be a piece of p**s, however if like me you don't have or don't wanna pay out for the right tools then it can be a little trickier.
Putting the cups in the frame is easy, i used a bit of scrap wood to protect them as i hit them into the frame with a hammer.
The crown race that sits on the forks is probably the hardest to fit, it was for me as the race was a really tight fit on the forks. After gently filing the forks where the race sits, i used an old open end spanner that fitted over the race & tapped it down over the forks.
Once you've fitted those then its pretty much job done.
Im sure someone will be able to explain it better than i can, but its a start

perry · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2008, 02:40 PM »

i was going to make my own press using a large bolt , a big nut and a load of large washers , but never got around to going to the fastening shop

a vice is possible but i havnt tried that either , if you have that option make sure the jaws are soft

anything softer than the cup is fine , wood is favourable , just as long as there is no metal on metal contact

keep it going in square , i cant stress that enough

when its finally seated the sound will reasonate slightly different

i have before now got the cups started and then assembled the headset and stem and tightened it down to press it in , but there is a big risk of crushing the bearings into the race and making it rough

garethgeezer · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2008, 07:41 PM »

A vice would work if you have one that opens wide enough, but I use either a long threaded bar with a nut either end and a large metal plate to push against the headset cups or if the head tube is short enough I use a void bush tool that is designed for replacing Cortina rear suspension arm bushes! Saved me buying the specific headset tool. All you are doing is squeezing the cups into the frame, it's not rocket science. Hammer with block of wood works ok, but for me would be a last resort especially on a ally frame. Bit of grease on the cups helps too, and can prevent 'squeaking' later on when you can never work out where that 'annoying creaking noise' is coming from.

EDIT: totally agree with Stikey regarding the crown race. Even worse when you have a mint pair of forks and you want to CHANGE the crown race to suit a new headset!! Took me a long time recently to do just that, protected the nicely painted forks with gaffer tape and tapped very carefully until it came off. Fitting the new one was done in exactly the way Strikey described, large 1+1/4" open ended spanner and careful not to scratch/score the surface.

perry · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2008, 07:46 PM »

ahh void bush tool

never been into mk5

garethgeezer · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2008, 07:50 PM »

Quote from: perry on March 22, 2008, 07:46 PM

ahh void bush tool never been into mk5

or Mk3 or Mk4! I have owned more Mk3's than I can remember and most of them needed new void bushes....
apart from my last one which had ladder bars and rose joints, but that's another story!

Anyhow, the void bush tool is a handy addition to any 'bicycle tool box', very useful for BB cups too