Author Topic: Am i F*****d??? (Read 2034 times)

Brandy Truffle · « **on:** December 07, 2007, 06:20 PM »

What an arse... gave a mate of mine who owns an Engineering company my set of Arayas from BITD to strip ano and polish,Rims great cond still,Bullseye Hubs virtually mint once i'd cleaned crap off them...

I didnt have time to strip them,but in conversation he said,no worries,he'd get one of the lads who was doing the polishing to do it,asked if i wanted to keep spokes,i said no gonna rebuild...

You can guess whats happened...... Geezer has snipped spokes off at the hubs and now i cant get the sprocket off....which means no re-use

Looked for a bit of advice on wheelbuilding and saw ALANS build page here..

http://www.alansbmx.com/wheelbuild.php

Quote

....If the wheels requires stripping (ie/the spokes taking out) there is a 5.00 change for this. IMPORTANT if you are stripping your own wheel YOU MUST REMOVE THE FREEWHEEL (if freewheel type) FIRST! If you do not do this we cannot get the freewheel off and we are all stuffed.

Any advice guys? $:-\$

harris · « **Reply #1 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:23 PM »

cant you just do a quick relace even if its just one side with tention you should still be able to budge it.

Brandy Truffle · « **Reply #2 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:29 PM »

Of all the things i thought of..... i didnt think of that! I wouldnt mind if it was an old set of Suzues or something,but i did paper rounds for 6 months to pay for those wheels

So,i dont really wanna lose the hubs.

Cheers Harris. A few quid spent on some spokes will be worth it hopefully!

Just hope the kid hasn't put it in a vice yet!

sawzall · « **Reply #3 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:30 PM »

i have done a couple of these,i ended up using a disc cutter carefully cutting through sprocket from three different angles being careful not to damage threads,good luck

crazycraig · « **Reply #4 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:31 PM »

Vice squash the freewheel tight and then turn .....works a treat as ive done the same mi sel $:-\$

QUADROPHENIA · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:32 PM »

just do a quick relace with some wankey spokes and rim, its alot quicker

MartyC · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2007, 06:35 PM »

Quote from: QUADROPHENIA on December 07, 2007, 06:32 PM

just do a quick relace with some wankey spokes and rim, its alot quicker

Just as Pete says (I find myself surprised at typing that

)

Frosty · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2007, 08:28 PM »

depends how close to the hub the spokes have been cut.

I bought a set of bullseye hubs and didn't realise the spokes had been cut out and I have tried the local bikes shop and my own various methods and I cannot the bloody cluster off

The problem with the Bulleyes is that they are three piece and unfortunately the cluster side flange does not extend across the barrell like the other side does.

Mattdub · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2007, 08:29 PM »

My LBS had to re-lace when I bought a pair of hubs & the previous owner had left the freewheel on !! twat !

SaMAlex · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2007, 08:36 PM »

What ever you do to hold the hub, its a good idea to get the freewheel apart first so you dont have to use a crappy freewheel removing tool. Try grinding the lock ring off or grinding the teeth ring in half. It should all come apart and you will be left with just the inner core, which is easy to get a good hold of in a vice, and you screw the hub away from it.

I have heard about people making "pin tools" out of a lump of ally and dowl pins, but I think lacing a rim onto the free side of the hub has got to be the way ... as long as the hub aint in 3 sectons. You might find you end up with the free flange coming away from the center tube (I dont know how bullseye hubs are constructed?)

Mattdub · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2007, 08:40 PM »

Quote from: Brandy Truffle on December 07, 2007, 06:20 PM

What an arse... gave a mate of mine who owns an Engineering company my set of Arayas from BITD to strip ano and polish,Rims great cond still,Bullseye Hubs virtually mint once i'd cleaned crap off them...

I didnt have time to strip them,but in conversation he said,no worries,he'd get one of the lads who was doing the polishing to do it,asked if i wanted to keep spokes,i said no gonna rebuild...

You can guess whats happened...... Geezer has snipped spokes off at the hubs and now i cant get the sprocket off....which means no re-use

Looked for a bit of advice on wheelbuilding and saw ALANS build page here..

http://www.alansbmx.com/wheelbuild.php

Quote
....If the wheels requires stripping (ie/the spokes taking out) there is a 5.00 change for this. IMPORTANT if you are stripping your own wheel YOU MUST REMOVE THE FREEWHEEL (if freewheel type) FIRST! If you do not do this we cannot get the freewheel off and we are all stuffed.

Any advice guys? $:-\$

Just make sure your mate tells young fella me lad polishing monkey that you still want the raised centre section on the rim if it's a 7X ! . After this you never know

Frosty · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2007, 08:45 PM »

Alex,

That is exactly the problem with the bullseyes, they are 3 piece

I have already damaged the pristine blue on the rear hub, but on way or another I intend to win this battle

SaMAlex · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2007, 09:00 PM »

Quote from: Frosty on December 07, 2007, 08:45 PM

That is exactly the problem with the bullseyes, they are 3 piece

Wow, check me out! Ive never even really seen a set of bullseye hubs. All these OS guys tellin you how to do it and it would have ripped your hubs apart!

So, to tell you more about the pintool idea. Take a lump or thick sheet of ally. Like 10mm thick but nice and long like a big spanner, and wider than the hub flange (kinda like a very big chopping knife). Draw a circle out on one end that is the same dia as the spoke holes. Cut the inside of the hole out, and make the end of the "spanner" into a "C" shape, like a tool for euro BBs. The part you cut out needs to be big enough to get the center of the hub shell inside it. Drill holes in the C shape that are the same size and pattern as the holes in the flange (you will only have half of a full flange left cos its only a C). Insert steel dowl pins to the ally, maybe even locktight them in. Now you have a tool that MIGHT get enough grip on the inside of the drive flange to turn it away from the freewheel (that will be held in a vice).

I hope that makes sence. If the tool doesnt work you can always use it to go hit the bloke who cut the wheel up!!!

Gary72 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 07, 2007, 09:48 PM »

how about trying one of them constrictor tools the rubber grippy belt type thing on the hub and a free wheel tool, I always put the wheel nut back on against the freewheel tool to stop it slipping.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOA-CONSTRICTOR-TWIN-PACK_W0QQitemZ230198910015QQihZ013QQcategoryZ66916QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Think they sell them in B&Q, just go in with your hub and freewheel tool and try it, dont have to buy it

lazychubs · « **Reply #14 on:** December 07, 2007, 10:31 PM »

air chisel
thats what got mine off and they was the ones from
the bottom of the sea hubs
funmonster had

Brandy Truffle · « **Reply #15 on:** December 08, 2007, 05:15 AM »

WOW Thanks for all the advice guys...think i'm gonna go with the one sided re-spoke first and see what happens...these hubs are too special for me... dont wanna risk it..will let you know how i get on..

Dingobmxer · « **Reply #16 on:** December 08, 2007, 09:03 AM »

dont do a one sided respoke on it, it may fook the hub.

Find a way of holding the hub without damaging it and then on the front of the freewheel there is a plate with two holes in, this holds the freewheel together.
Take a small drift or screwdriver and put it in one of these holes then knock it ANT-clockwise, with a bit of work this will unscrew and then the freewheel will come apart, you will have a million tiny ball bearings and some tiny springs all over your kitchen floor but more importantly the ring with the teeth on will pull off the hub leaving only the inner part left on the hub.
This should expose the spoke holes so you can lace and tension it up properly on both sides then using a vice hold the remaining bit of freewheel and using the wheel as leverage turn the wheel anti clockwise and spin it off the knackered freewheel

DINGO

bof · « **Reply #17 on:** December 08, 2007, 09:27 AM »

what dingo said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

beard1973 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 08, 2007, 10:38 AM »

I wish this thread had existed 2 months ago...

On my workshop shelf I have one destroyed Suzie Hub & one Suntour Hub.... $:-\$

Great Advice guys.. next time I will follow it...

Frosty · « **Reply #19 on:** December 08, 2007, 04:10 PM »

I have tried the grippa thingy but there isn't enough of the freewheel side of the hub to get a grip on.

jT Racing · « **Reply #20 on:** December 09, 2007, 12:22 PM »

if you feel your gonna wreck it and are willing to pay the postage both ways, i'll do it for you.

crazycraig · « **Reply #21 on:** December 09, 2007, 12:24 PM »

Sthil saw

jT Racing · « **Reply #22 on:** December 09, 2007, 12:33 PM »

it's not difficult, you need an angle grinder, some masking tape, a vice, some wood and a cloth(not to mention goggles) use wood and cloth in vice to carefully grip your masked off hub(spray from grinder will mark any finish on said hub), with a thin(and i mean thin) cutting disk(you will need a few but they are cheap) proceed to cut through the cogs being carefull to not cut into the screw thread, or into the hub, and not in one go or it will get too hot and damage the finish. Experience and patience are important. use both hands on the grinder and use a 125mm grinder not a big stupid 230mm or something. I've done it twice now and it's a pain in the arse but it's nice to keep the hubs.

sonic-1 · « **Reply #23 on:** December 09, 2007, 11:51 PM »

Quote from: J.T. RACING on December 09, 2007, 12:33 PM

it's not difficult, you need an angle grinder, some masking tape, a vice, some wood and a cloth(not to mention goggles) use wood and cloth in vice to carefully grip your masked off hub(spray from grinder will mark any finish on said hub), with a thin(and i mean thin) cutting disk(you will need a few but they are cheap) proceed to cut through the cogs being carefull to not cut into the screw thread, or into the hub, and not in one go or it will get too hot and damage the finish. Experience and patience are important. use both hands on the grinder and use a 125mm grinder not a big stupid 230mm or something. I've done it twice now and it's a pain in the arse but it's nice to keep the hubs.

sounds like a good job for the dremel the cutting discs are so pricise n with the flexy shaft would be very easy
think dissasemble freewheel idea then re lace is the best option though

TwoBobRob · « **Reply #24 on:** December 09, 2007, 11:57 PM »

Yip. Dremel for sure. Othwise, if you ask for a cutting disc suitable for stainless steel, you'll get a 1mm thick disc. They're lovely to use and cut very well indeed. Far better than a standard cutting disc

Author Topic: Am i F*****d??? (Read 2034 times)

Frosty

SaMAlex

Frosty

SaMAlex

bof

Frosty

sonic-1