SST Gyro setup

[macmark]

Can anyone post up some detailed pics of the cable routing for the above please? From levers down to each brake if possible, or point me in the direction of some kind of install guide.

I've just got one of the cheap 06 Haro Sports and haven't a clue where all the cables and bits are supposed to go.

Many Thanks.

Mark

[pickle]

here you go mark.....not great pictures as they're off my phone.

[macmark]

Nice one mate.

On the one I'm doing now the front cable after it comes out under the forks and loops up around to feed in the brake has like an 8 inch loop sticking out the side. Is that right? Looks a bit dodgy, almost as if I'll catch the cable on some old dears shopping trolly as she overtakes me. Also there's a plastic doodat in a bag that I assume goes on the seatpost upright of the frame to guide the rear cables in to the brake? The rear brake is on the lower chainstays on this bike.

Thanks again.

Mark

[pickle]

you're right about the loop.....sounds a little large!  but they're a bigger to cut mate!

as for the rear? not sure on that plastic part?  my rear brake is on the seat stays not the chain ones......do you not have a welded on lug with three holes in it on the frame?  the two lower cables should screw into that....maybe the plastic bit is incase you only have one hole?  is it called a 'london mod' or something? 

[macmark]

Dunno mate, still working on the front brake.

I forgot how hard it was to adjust your brakes without one of those third hand gadgets to hold the brakes together! Just tried holding the excess cable in my teeth while I reached for the spanner and my hand holding the brakes to the rim slipped and the cable pulled through my teeth! I solved the big loop problem though. I just pulled the cable back up through the stem bolt a bit.

Just got to tighten up the front somehow a bit first then I'll tackle the rear.

Haven't had this much fun in years.

Mark

[pickle]

cool!  it's all good mate!  get some photos up as well! 

[macmark]

Well, here she is. All she needs is air in the tyres and the rear brake sorting out.

Now, does this rear brake setup look right to you lot? It's all only finger tight at the moment. I don't want to start cutting cables just yet.

Cheers.

Mark

[TwoBobRob]

Others will disagree, but you can chuck that plastic bit in the bin.....  aside from that,  look again at the straddle cable hanger and you'll see that the single cable can actually sail through it in a nice straight line which will help your braking no end.


Aside from that , it looks good      oil them cables if you haven't already   


There's a lot of tinkering to be done with the gyro and cables, but we'll get to that if your brake isn't as good as you'd like.

[macmark]

Ok, got everything sorted apart from air in the tyres and this mother f*cking gyro. It's getting right on my t1ts! I'm not a stupid fooker and I've stripped and rebuilt my fair share of bikes bitd but this thing has got me mad. The poxy instructions that come with it are no use, they keep going on about nickels and dimes and bearings but don't explain what part is the bearing.

Anyone with any knowledge of SST gyros in the East End fancy coming and having a go at it for me? I'll make it worth your while, beer/tea/coffee and food on tap and I'll throw in a free t-shirt of your choice.

Someone help me.

Mark

[TwoBobRob]

Well, I'm in Romford......

From the photos, it doesn't look bad at all.  Just needs tweaking probably.  The bearing is the spinny roundy bit that just hangs loose and the cable nipples go into.

The trick is to wind the cable adjuster on your lever all the way in (so the cable feels slack) and do the same on the adjuster on the top cable.

Then wind the two top adjusters on the gyro out to their highest point and lock them off.

Then wind the bottom two adjusters out to their lowest point and lock them off.

So now you have the biggest gap possible between the upper and lower bits of your gyro.

Then wind the single adjuster nearest the straddle cable all the way in, so its at its loosest.

Now sort out your straddle cable and the little silver hanger so the single cable runs straight through it nicely and hangs out the bottom.

Be sure to pull some cable through if you need to loose some slack.

Now adjust your brake just like the old days with the single adjuster on your downtube closest to the straddle.

Go back to your lever and use that adjuster ONLY to take any remaining slack out of it.

Any further adjustments should only be made down on the downtube nearest the straddle.  


That should sort it out.  Oil cables,  deglaze pads and clean rims.  Go ride!


It sounds like a bollockache, and it is.....  but gyros work just fine once they've been teaked a few times.  Can take a bit of patience  


PM me if you can't be arsed to go through it and I'll pop round sometime.

[macmark]

Thanks mate,

That makes a hell of a lot more sense than the instructions that came with it!

I think it's because all the cables weren't attached to the bike so I'm starting from scratch that's confusing me. I was going to get my nephew to come round on his GT because I know that has the same set up to use as a reference point but the poor little (6ft) sod has just had his tonsils and adenoids out.

Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated! Any probs and I'll give you a shout.

Cheers.

Mark

[TwoBobRob]

If you're starting from scratch,  then do the job in two halves.  Bottom first, then top.  It doesn't all have to go on at the same time.

With the bottom correctly fitted, the brake spring tension should be pulling the gyro bearing down as far as it wants to go, and you should have the brake itself adjusted nicely so its just off the rim.

Plonk the top cable on and just dial out any slack that's there.   Back down to the single downtube adjuster for the final tweak.