Author Topic: Ripper repair (Read 1389 times)

Waxintaxin · « **on:** March 15, 2007, 03:13 PM »

who can repair my ripper

cracked by the seatpost clamp

happy to have whole tube replaced

i know Jays mate could but has gone abroad

anyone

Thanks

Rich

zed4130 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 15, 2007, 03:21 PM »

bitd mine had a cracked seat post and bottom bracket when i got it 'as i got it cheap 'i took it to school and my metal work teacher put a sleeve over it and welded it on 'put a slit init and hey presto 'i think i had to use a burners seat clamp ? he allso added a bit to the bottom bracket

but of course this is abit bodgy today

MartyC · « **Reply #2 on:** March 15, 2007, 03:23 PM »

Wasn't it Donker that has seat post tubes for Rippers and replaces them? He was on the site a few weeks back

You might try PKRADMAN, if not a friend of mine could do it but would need pics to see what the damage is first

brass monkey! · « **Reply #3 on:** March 15, 2007, 03:26 PM »

I got my crack repaired in Basildon !!

Seat post crack that is

top job, and the Alu welder did it for a tenner !!!

jimwise68 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 15, 2007, 03:27 PM »

Rich, sell it and get a Tuff Burner.

It's ICONIC and TUFF

rarman1 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 15, 2007, 03:38 PM »

Quote from: jimwise68 on March 15, 2007, 03:27 PM

Rich, sell it and get a Tuff Burner.

It's ICONIC and TUFF

Waxintaxin · « **Reply #6 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:05 PM »

biscuits of monkeys

what did he do just re weld and grind it down?

brass monkey! · « **Reply #7 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:20 PM »

Quote from: Waxintaxin on March 15, 2007, 04:05 PM

biscuits of monkeys

what did he do just re weld and grind it down?

mine had a hairline crack from the centre of the seat tube, right round to the front of the it, where it meets the toptube....

as far as I am aware, yes, the welder did grind a 'groove' in the area where the crack was to give it something to 'bite' on to and also took off some of the original 'weld' at the base of the seatpost, where it was attached to the toptube, then pushed the weld right into the 'crack' and the small 'groove' then smoothed it down to the level of the original seat tube. The weld he did to replace the orignal one was just a straight smooth one, so I got my mate Kev (Hotplate on RAD) to make it look like the original weld with the 'drip' effect. He's an antique restorer, not sure how he did it, but I only paid the welders fee of a tenner !!

Sorry for waffling, but it was hard to explain in fewer words.....

I think Dan Harris had one done by another welder, not sure how though,.......

MartyC · « **Reply #8 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:23 PM »

Rich, post up a couple of pics of it or PM them to me and I'll get my mate to take a look at it

harris · « **Reply #9 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:23 PM »

i have 3 hear that have seat post cracks ,not doing them yet to much on the go.

Gashead · « **Reply #10 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:34 PM »

Has it turned up then Rich - are you ok with it !

Nick

Waxintaxin · « **Reply #11 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:38 PM »

Yea Nick all good

its as i expected mate , looks to have been repaired before with a bigger diameter tube already just at the top of the seat tube , I will prob try for a complete seat mast replacement , which was what i thought it would need anyway so all good fella

Gashead · « **Reply #12 on:** March 15, 2007, 04:39 PM »

I'll bag the chq now then mate !

QUADROPHENIA · « **Reply #13 on:** March 15, 2007, 05:25 PM »

rich speak to fuzzynod if you want a pukka repair, does that mean the short fat one will riding a cruiser now?

rakas17 · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2007, 06:31 PM »

derrr

are you blind

http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php'topic=22390.0

Bob_Acid · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2007, 06:41 PM »

Who did Rhy's?

sawzall · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2007, 06:53 PM »

rich have a word with donker,he made me a new seat tube (top job)then i carefully removed old seat tube using an air saw belt sander and die grinder then inserted new tube in frame to check fit then removed,i drilled a 4mm hole in bottom bracket in centre where new tube sat and used a bit of threded bar with a nut and washer inside bb and another at top of seat tube with a large repair washer then tightened through new tube, this keeps tube in correct position,i also used a small ratchet strap from head tube to rear drop outs to hold it all together,also fit a couple of old bearing cups to keep it the right shape as the welding creates a lot of heat and can distort it, then all you need to do is find a good welder then remove straps and threded bar ,heres a pic of the one i did