Author Topic: top tips wanted on home paint job (Read 3536 times)

harris · « **on:** March 09, 2007, 08:05 AM »

i have done a fair few wrattle can jobs and they all sucked rearly
so im gonna try another on a hack ride so not to important
top tips needed .

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:09 AM »

top tip.

warm your room.

put the rattle cans in a washing up bowl of hot water.

dont expect to get it right and shiny for quite a while, just keep layering and layering.

especially round the areas that will get more abuse when you flat it down with wet and dry. ie the dropout edges. Laquer it if you want, i do usually, but paint thats been flatted and polished usually looks good.

leave it for at least 3 days before flatting it.

then t-cut.

lazychubs · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:18 AM »

and dont take it outside with greasy hands and drop it hehe

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:36 AM »

twat.

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:37 AM »

notice i didnt put up the lol sign......heh heh

harris · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:38 AM »

how many coats of laquer do you use,i generaly give it 4 coats but will need to let it harden for longer.

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2007, 08:41 AM »

well, i usually just buy 2 big cans, and use it all. i dont usually spray the entire frame at once, cos if you do, you always manage to overspray a certain bit and get runs. i do all the hard bits, and leave it, then do the main tubes.

thats the hardest bit, i work on the principle that it can be a bit patchy, cos it will all be flatted smooth.

Flaz · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2007, 09:17 AM »

A mate of mine told me before you t- cut it get the finest grade wire wool you can get and give it a good rub over this will remove the tiny dust particles you dont get when your in a proper spray cubilce then t -cut it back so its shiney again then put your decals on, then you protect it

hope this helps dan ?

flaz

theRuler · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2007, 09:23 AM »

heat is the key
get your paint warm like phil said - leave the cans on the radiator, or in the airing cupboard for a while. or the hot water trick. either is good.
also get the frame warm too.

lash on as much primer as you can afford, then wet flat that
wet flat it with 400. that'll do. if you go through the primer, put more on then wet flat again.
this will give you a smooth surface for the paint

panel wipe is useful here

put the top coat on in layers

keep it hot

when you have finished put the stuff somewhere warm for at least a week

spray can paint takes 7 days to go hard

theRuler · « **Reply #9 on:** March 09, 2007, 09:25 AM »

also, when you are wet flatting dont use just the paper
wrap the paper around a rag. keeps lots of water on the job
stops the paper filling up too quick

if you are dry sanding anything, take the sheet of sandpaper, split it in half
then take that half and fold it into a third of it's size

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2007, 12:30 PM »

yep, loads of water.......i stand mine in the sink, on a sponge to protect the drops.

sonic-1 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2007, 12:55 PM »

wouldnt heat the cans to much !!!! room temp works ok . the main thing is the primer coat do it real thick then once dry use p600 wet n dry to flat the primer real smooth then use p800 wet over it then yer ready for paint
hang frame up in nice clean garage get the garage over 20*c then spray light coat all over give this 10 min to go off then coat again all over waint another 10 min then yer ready to put thicker coat on n go for the finish

pickle · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2007, 01:55 PM »

I wouldn't advize the '1980's council estate Burner' method, of just sticking the whole bike up against a wall (preferably not your dads garage wall....someone elses) and then just spray as hard as you can.....covering everything in it's path.....Tyres, cranks, seat tube...the lot!

lazychubs · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2007, 06:38 PM »

Quote from: oberonspacefruit on March 09, 2007, 08:37 AM

notice i didnt put up the lol sign......heh heh

thats ok my fruity friend
a nice dry slap coming ure way soon

MartyC · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2007, 10:12 PM »

I'd just get SuperbikeDan to powder the damn things

superbikedan · « **Reply #15 on:** March 09, 2007, 11:45 PM »

dan the top tip i can give you is,

send it to me

harris · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2007, 07:37 AM »

i no dan but this is only a cheap hack and doesnt warrant a proper job as it will be abused by
kids and probably nicked

i will get one up to you 1 day.

dordymush · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2007, 10:26 AM »

hammerite.
cant beat it lol.

Wayne Ryder · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2007, 11:01 AM »

Quote from: dordymush on March 10, 2007, 10:26 AM

hammerite.
cant beat it lol.

Not so fast with the humour, sir.
I got pretty good results with some cans of black Smoothrite. The GT bars I painted in about 1988 haven't need much doing to them since, so I repeated the process on the StreetBeat. Obviously not a mirror-smooth and glossy professional finish, but good enough for a rider.

Gary72 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2007, 08:59 PM »

With regards to using hot water to warm up the cans, make sure its not too hot as they do go with quite a bang!!!!!!!
Yellow primer over red car in garage, :10_2_12:blew the small swafega tub the water was in to bits

Brother was lucky he had just turned away from it as it went off.
Good luck