Author Topic: skway riveting (Read 9024 times)

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #25 on:** April 05, 2014, 10:50 AM »

marty, where have they said that? ive never seen any advice from skyway.....im not saying they havnt, but id like to read what else theyve said.

MartyC · « **Reply #26 on:** April 05, 2014, 11:05 AM »

It says it on the replacement hub instructions. Can't find my copy at the moment but it does state it.

dirtskirt · « **Reply #27 on:** April 05, 2014, 05:10 PM »

Im interested to know how this could be done
Look at mine -

The wheel itself is fine, just the hub flanges need changing.
Thinking caps on

84freestyler · « **Reply #28 on:** April 05, 2014, 06:38 PM »

Exact same problem Dirtskirt!

Mine are that badly corroded you can't even make out the skyway stamp!

waza007 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 07, 2014, 12:50 AM »

rivets are not tapered!!
the reason skyway says which direction to punch them out is that the rivet shaft does get slightly distorted on the end that is riveted
If you were to punch that end all the way through the plastic hole it would haveten stretch or crack the plastic tuff

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

84freestyler · « **Reply #30 on:** April 07, 2014, 12:11 PM »

Quote from: dirtskirt on April 05, 2014, 05:10 PM

Im interested to know how this could be done
Look at mine -

The wheel itself is fine, just the hub flanges need changing.
Thinking caps on

Have you bleached them yourself dirtskirt? they look super white.

MartyC · « **Reply #31 on:** April 07, 2014, 02:10 PM »

Quote from: waza007 on April 07, 2014, 12:50 AM

rivets are not tapered!!
the reason skyway says which direction to punch them out is that the rivet shaft does get slightly distorted on the end that is riveted
If you were to punch that end all the way through the plastic hole it would haveten stretch or crack the plastic tuff

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

So they are wider at one end than the other; what's a word that describes that

jimwise68 · « **Reply #32 on:** April 07, 2014, 03:04 PM »

Marty, was going to put a pic of a TAPIR in but couldnt be arsed! lol

dirtskirt · « **Reply #33 on:** April 07, 2014, 09:56 PM »

Have you bleached them yourself dirtskirt? they look super white.
[/quote]

Yeah , i gave it a soaking in diluted bleach, the flanges were already a bit pitted due to age and oxidization, but it didn't help when i used grease to try and protect them from the bleach because it seeped through and made them worse. so ive tried to give them a polish up but they are so difficult & awkward. i gave it a second bleaching this time with thick layer of Vaseline which done the trick, Also the freewheel was toatally seized on so i had get the angle grinder to cut it off, being super careful not to touch the ally.
A lot of work for a battered old flange

Can you still get replacement flanges anywhere?

84freestyler · « **Reply #34 on:** April 07, 2014, 11:05 PM »

Yeah I,m after a set of rear hubs/flanges.. Got a front set coming but think there's a few scuffs on them from replacement bolts.. Got in touch with wazu007 and he,s kindly agreed to send me some rivets! "Thanks Wazu"

I wonder if there's any way to forge the flange too? Wouldn't that be Great??

What bleech did you use dirtskirt? I read the thinner the bleech the better? And for how long, and any pre bleech cleaning or scuffing before hand?

Thanks

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #35 on:** April 08, 2014, 08:17 AM »

I reckon i could fabricate a pretty good copy from mild steel, but i couldnt do the thread.

dirtskirt · « **Reply #36 on:** April 08, 2014, 09:24 PM »

What bleech did you use dirtskirt? I read the thinner the bleech the better? And for how long, and any pre bleech cleaning or scuffing before hand?

Thanks
[/quote]

I just used lidl's bleach, 2 big bottles of the thick one I think? I had to add some water to get the whole wheel submerged. Gave it a slight scrub prior with warm water & washing powder & rough cloth.
Left it the bleach for a couple days I think.
Definitely need a heavy coat of Vaseline on the flanges tho to protect them, a good 10mm layer all over should do the job.

84freestyler · « **Reply #37 on:** April 08, 2014, 11:32 PM »

thanks Dirtskirt.. If I can sort out the hub riveting I,ll bleech them without the hubs on the wheels..i Just need a good rear hub now? Got a post in the wanted section, anyone??

oldschoolace · « **Reply #38 on:** April 09, 2014, 12:03 AM »

There is a much easier way of getting a convincing looking finish to the original skyway rivets without the huge outlay or machinery.

Just get hold of some blind rivets

Then holding the correct size bolt in a drill, grind the desired shape for the head (this took seconds and with a bit of work with some wet or dry looked ace)

Tighten the two together with decent pliers with a small bit of leather/rubber protecting the heads against the teeth and with a drop of thread lock its job done

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #39 on:** April 09, 2014, 12:21 AM »

waza group deal ??

84freestyler · « **Reply #40 on:** April 09, 2014, 12:36 AM »

Quote from: oldschoolace on April 09, 2014, 12:03 AM

There is a much easier way of getting a convincing looking finish to the original skyway rivets without the huge outlay or machinery.

Just get hold of some blind rivets

Then holding the correct size bolt in a drill, grind the desired shape for the head (this took seconds and with a bit of work with some wet or dry looked ace)

Tighten the two together with decent pliers with a small bit of leather/rubber protecting the heads against the teeth and with a drop of thread lock its job done

Yeah, I,ve read most of what can be done with bolts, blind rivet etc.. And it does luk good for show bikes. But i want to ride mine tho.

QUADROPHENIA · « **Reply #41 on:** April 09, 2014, 08:40 AM »

If you want to ride it just use the replacement nut and bolt from the kits

oldschoolace · « **Reply #42 on:** April 09, 2014, 09:24 AM »

No reason why you can't ride them, a blind nut is just as effective as the skyway replacement nut and bolt set when it comes to strength.

84freestyler · « **Reply #43 on:** April 09, 2014, 09:55 AM »

Quote from: QUADROPHENIA on April 09, 2014, 08:40 AM

If you want to ride it just use the replacement nut and bolt from the kits

It may come to that mate if I can't rivet them.. I just think the nut and bolt look a little naff. Just my opinion tho

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #44 on:** April 09, 2014, 10:07 AM »

if you used that method on the bolt (grinding) then used a dome nut - possibly ground down as well, it would look better than a standard nut and bolt.

84freestyler · « **Reply #45 on:** April 09, 2014, 10:41 PM »

Quote from: oberonspacefruit on April 09, 2014, 10:07 AM

if you used that method on the bolt (grinding) then used a dome nut - possibly ground down as well, it would look better than a standard nut and bolt.

I,ve considered that too mate, that is a good second option to the rivets

84freestyler · « **Reply #46 on:** April 12, 2014, 11:47 PM »

Rivets arrived and in just 5 days from Oz!

Big "Thank You" to wazu007 (he knows why)

"So it Begins"

Wish me luck fellow Radsters!

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #47 on:** April 13, 2014, 12:57 AM »

I HOPE IT BLOODY WORKS...

waza007 · « **Reply #48 on:** January 17, 2016, 06:02 AM »

They are NOT wider at one end. FACT

when they get riveted the rivet shaft gets distorted (twisted)
If you try and push the distorted(bent) end through the plastic it MAY crank the plastic.

Ady · « **Reply #49 on:** February 16, 2019, 11:13 PM »

Old thread as needed some advice , so worthy of a bump..