Author Topic: Bike is Kicking My Derriere (Read 1506 times)

Wayne Ryder · « **on:** April 08, 2018, 05:16 PM »

For over a week now I've been chasing problems around my bike, it's like the most frustrating game of Whac-A-Mole ever played. The rear brake is stubbornly refusing to work.

First, the bars. A new (to me) pair meant the twin upper Gyro cable woudn't quite reach. So I bought a longer replacement.
Next, it was the levers. I bought new ones as the old ones weren't sprung and the brake felt 'dead'. Problem number one, the twin cable wasn't compatible. So I ground a recess into the rear one and now they are.
Then, the inner cables were too long and wouldn't pull the Gyro up. Not wanting to raise the stem any, I used some solderless nipples to shorten them. Ironically, I dropped some solder in there to make doubly sure they'd stay put. This meant cutting a slot into the top plate, but that's no biggie and I've done more than one of those.
But still the rear brake felt wrong, the right arm wasn't moving freely. Maybe some grease on the posts would help, so off it came.
Unfortunately, the screw-in post came out instead of the allen bolt. And that's where I am now.
Heat hasn't worked. There's a slot at the bottom, but under force it either climbs off of the screwdriver tip or twists it. I don't want to ruin the threads by gripping or clamping it. Second to last resort would be grinding down two flat areas so that it can sit in a vice, which will cost some threads. Last resort would be 'ruin and replace', but that would mean sourcing posts and it won't be easy. It wasn't a walk in the park getting the current ones (for a 2011 T1 Ruben).

Any ideas, tips, cunning plans anyone?

john4130 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 08, 2018, 07:41 PM »

you could screw it back into the frame with some threadlock on it, let it set and try again. or cut a slot in the end for a flat blade screwdriver to hold it.

Wayne Ryder · « **Reply #2 on:** April 08, 2018, 11:29 PM »

Threadlock's a good call, if it's strong enough. Never used it before.
There's already a screw slot, which doesn't work all that well as a means to undo the thing.

Tachikoma · « **Reply #3 on:** April 09, 2018, 05:36 AM »

Washer on the thread , then a thin nut down to the washer (but not tight) followed by a second thin nut to lock the first one, then use first nut and a spanner to unthread the whole thing from the bike.

Just make the sure first washer is free when you lock those nuts in place.

mivvi · « **Reply #4 on:** April 09, 2018, 09:16 AM »

Yep, go with what Tachikoma says. Two nuts locked together on the thread will hold it solid. Good luck!

Wayne Ryder · « **Reply #5 on:** April 09, 2018, 07:29 PM »

Ingenious! Seems obvious now, which is the hallmark of a good idea.
I sense a rummage in the bits n bobs collection coming on. Tachikoma, you da man.

Wayne Ryder · « **Reply #6 on:** April 10, 2018, 05:11 PM »

Happy ending, the twin bolt setup worked. In fact the hardest part was finding a thin enough spanner for the inner of the two.
I've ordered threadlock for when the post's remounted, no intention of doing this again.

Thanks again Tachikoma.

Tachikoma · « **Reply #7 on:** April 18, 2018, 06:42 AM »

No problem, glad you got it off!

Just get a small wire brush in it's thread and in the threaded hole on the bike before putting it back on or it might end up being an even bigger pain to remove the next time!