Haro Sport Platinum Survivor - Need help from our Restoration Masters

[oldtired]

citric acid bath , or oxallic acid bath ,  will remove all the crud but more importantly the loose  rust, both outside and inside the frame without damaging the paint or stickers,  dry out the frame well and then treat with a rust converter on the outside and rust inhibiter inside the tubes,   Note, i would test the rust converters if you use one with the paint on the frame ,  sometimes the converters will work as a solvent on paint so be carefull,     

  as to the chemical metal filler , it's actually called that, get it from car shops etc  but there are a few on the market , 


note..... i put "if your not having it powdered" use chemical metal type filler,   however  if you are thinking of having it powder coated  you should consider ..... powder coating involves baking the parts in an oven , so temperature may be an issue with the filler,    best to check with the powder coaters as to what they recomend , i would think most would recomend braze or lead filling only? or they may use a particular high temp filler?     as always on here,  SBD is man to ask 


 

tbh any one half decent with a mig welder could sort those holes in about 5 mins then your covered whichever way you go with the paint 

[Andyboy77]

citric acid bath , or oxallic acid bath ,  will remove all the crud but more importantly the loose  rust, both outside and inside the frame without damaging the paint or stickers,  dry out the frame well and then treat with a rust converter on the outside and rust inhibiter inside the tubes,   Note, i would test the rust converters if you use one with the paint on the frame ,  sometimes the converters will work as a solvent on paint so be carefull,     

  as to the chemical metal filler , it's actually called that, get it from car shops etc  but there are a few on the market , 


note..... i put "if your not having it powdered" use chemical metal type filler,   however  if you are thinking of having it powder coated  you should consider ..... powder coating involves baking the parts in an oven , so temperature may be an issue with the filler,    best to check with the powder coaters as to what they recomend , i would think most would recomend braze or lead filling only? or they may use a particular high temp filler?     as always on here,  SBD is man to ask 


 

tbh any one half decent with a mig welder could sort those holes in about 5 mins then your covered whichever way you go with the paint 

Fantastic stuff! Thanks a lot for your help.  That's a lot of new background info to me.

I will get a babypool and the citric acid possibly by the end of next week.  I'll also try to send SBD a message to ask him for the correct filler.

[ED209]

Survivors have soul.

All this bike needs is a clean and a tidy ... deffo not a repaint ... that would kill it.

You need to 'Gunk' off all the oil and grease before a citric bath ... anything with rust on you can put in ... no decals will be harmed.

Your 'bath' needs to take your biggest part ( frame ) then you can fill up with other bits around it ... if theres space put in bricks to fill the gaps then the mixture doesn't have to be as diluted.

I usually use a whole 500g bag in a frame sized bath ... get the water as hot as you can to start with. Leave it 24 hours then fish a bit out and see how its looking ... it usual to have to use a scalple blade to tease off any rust spots left. Give the parts a really good wash in hot water and washing up liquid ( they need to be rinsed inside and out )

Put back together ... NO POLISHING! Job done.

[oldtired]

agree 100% on the no painting option , touch up only, if you feel the need ,      every scratch tells the tale of a grind gone wrong  ,  as Ed says not many of the blue ones about.