Early 90s quadangle build progress made today 04/07

[threaders]

Hi. I'm planning on doing a rider build and picked this up from eBay and I finally made some progress today, see bottom of the thread



I thought it was going to be all 80s sizes but it had a new school stem on it and the forks are thread less  I'm not sure of the year and I've never seen thread less standing gear forks so any help on that would be cool.
Can anyone tell me what wheels I'll need? Is it 10mm on the front and 14mm on the back or can I use either? Also I need to know what stem size and headset size I'll need and are they easy to fit? Can I fit an old school 3 piece crank and what size freewheel would be best if I'm using new school wheels? I want the most resistance when pedalling so thought a higher tooth chainring was in order but don't know if it will be compatible with a new school freewheel? Can I fit an old school freewheel to a new school wheel?  I think that's it. Oh any new school brands that are good to stick with? I want decent parts and I'll be aiming to put together a baby blue quad with gold parts and black tyres
Any advice would be much appreciated and thanks for your time. Cheers Jonathan

[oldtired]

 there's a lot of info your going to need on this one well into the fun that is mid school with this     


  there's a 93 quad on museum with standing gears and canti brake frame, so i would assume yours is around the same time ,
 

 

[pickle]

I would say the frame has 10mm rear drops and i'm not entirely sure those are the original forks?  there doesn't look much room in that head tube for a headset to fit round them, i wouldn't be surprised if the frame is a 1" threaded fork rather than a 1 1/8th headset??

Could be wrong though 

[oldtired]

yup,     pickle may be right having looked a little closer at the pics

modified  my post    was going for 1 1/8th front end as it has canti mounts and i think the last of the 1" had 990 mounts ?  i may or will most probably be wrong though 


can you measure the internal dimeter of the headtube and the rear slots  Threaders ? 

[threaders]

Thanks for those replies and info fellas. I have checked the museum and I reckon it's a 93/94 frameset from the looks of things. The rear dropouts are 10mm so I'll be using an old school wheel set and an old school 3 piece crank which I'm happy with as I prefer the old school vibe.
It came with a new school dia compe ahead set and stem but I had to take them off as I'll be getting it powder coated. I've never had a new school stem so wasn't sure if they come in different sizes or if they changed sizes over the last 20 years or so. I have some old school headset cups which fit the frame but are very loose in the head tube with a quite a bit of play.
The head tube measures just under 1 1/2 inches and the fork steerer measures 1 inch so I guess I need a 1 inch thread less headset but not sure on the stem? I'm also not sure why the frame has freestyle forks but no rear frame standers like the 80s freestyle quad but I do like the look of them. One other daft newbie question, why no layback posts on racing builds? I was going to use a layback but not if it messes with the geometry.
Thanks chaps 

[pickle]

I know it's your bike so you can do what you want with it......but why oh why are you going to get it re-powdered?

That is the original finish which to me, looks top notch!  they're only original once, once you powder it, it's just another powdered frame with no soul

[threaders]

Your making me feel bad now  to be honest I wasn't sure it was the original finish when I bought it I was just looking for a quadangle for a rider and this one came up. This is the colour way I had in mind as I saw this on the museum and fell in love

I wonder if mine will ride better than an 80s quad? I've only ridden the post 2000 quad cruisers but didn't really like them. I won't be doing anything with it for a while as I want to get all the bits first 

[Quadog]

Do it

The one in pic looks stunning

[deeman]

^^^ What Quaddog said! It is never going to be super valuable, would look killer in baby blue! You can still get 1 1/8" stems which look old school if you want that look! 

[poorboyee]

if it is a 1-inch threadless you may have a job finding any stems, but you can get a shim to accommodate a 1/8-inch stem! the headset would probably be easier to find or "CONVERTER CUPS"  at the very least, but still rare these days as 1inch "aheadsets" fell out of favour for the bigger version

[VOIVOD]

  If it is a 1 inch threadless,there are still plenty of newschool 1 inch aheadsets available.

[oldtired]

3/8th dropouts solves a few problems ,   
 

is the front one of the oddball crossover ones,   1 1/8"  headtube with 1" threadless forks then?    if it is then a 1" threadless headset may have cups that are to small

accurate measurements in mm will solve this , internal headtube , external forks......      


    gota love mid school
 

 

[threaders]

Hi. Thanks for all the comments and advice it's really appreciated. I have taken these pics which I hope will help here are the forks:)

And here is the head tube

So are there three sizes of stem then , old school, mid and new? I get confused when I look on eBay as some say 1inch, or 1 1/8 or 28.6  what are people's thoughts on using a layback post on this?
Cheers, Jonathan 

[poorboyee]

Hi. Thanks for all the comments and advice it's really appreciated. I have taken these pics which I hope will help here are the forks:)

And here is the head tube

So are there three sizes of stem then , old school, mid and new? I get confused when I look on eBay as some say 1inch, or 1 1/8 or 28.6  what are people's thoughts on using a layback post on this?
Cheers, Jonathan 

the forks look to be 1.1/8, so nothing to worry about there and ive just checked my old 1.1/8 standard "shorty" head tube! its the same as your quadangles so your the father of a....healthy 7lbs 1.1/8 quadangle f/f

[threaders]

Cool, so I need a 1 1/8 thread less stem and a 1 1/8 thread less headset then ?  thanks for checking the measurements 

[oldtired]

even though i learnt to measure  using digitus and gradus the pics do nothing for me 

1 1/8 fork     28.5 mm      external

1 1/8 headtube 34mm     internal

so wheels sorted
cranks sorted
stem/ headset sorted

seat post next  then .........   25mm or 22.2mm or 22.6mm     

[threaders]

  thanks old tired. Now the seatpost size is one that I know as I've got a 22.2 post that fits, but still don't know about the layback idea, oh and I did have another question, fat and skinny tyres, what's that about and what difference is it between two 20x1.75 tyres?
I'm also not seeing the ral colour for the light blue as there lightest shade is 5012 and that's too dark so super bike Dan may get this one.
I'm hoping to get some funds in a week or two and I'll be starting to find bits and put it together and will be looking forward to it. I've been watching tons of stuff on eBay to give me an idea of prices but I'm hoping I can put up a want list on here for most of it.
Thanks for checking out the post

[oldtired]

assuming you'll be using   20x 1.75 rims

tire size    20x1.75  and a 20x2.125  i comonly known as fat / thin combo  thin one on the back   20x175,  fat one up front 20x2.125

you can also use two 20x1.75  as the fat tire up front alters the head angle a little ,   very rare to see two fat tires on anything after 1979/1980


common mid school sizes are 20x 1.8 , 1.85 and 1.9  and usually you would have the same size tire on both wheels , although some still ran a 20x2.125 up front 


ns tires are commonly 2.0 ,  2.1    or bigger, again usally the same both wheels


i've got mid frames that will not take more than a 20x 1.9   your  quad may  be simillar ,so worth checking the frame ,

 infact i've got ns race frame the will not take more than a 20x1.85


 

[threaders]

Thanks oldtired 
Is there any other reason you might run a fat tyre up front other than the head tube angle? I'll be using 20x1.75 rims but I've seen thinner old school wheels, what are they for? I think that's nearly everything sorted other than the layback post issue,mis there a reason they arnt very common on racing builds?
Cheers Jonathan 

[poorboyee]

the reason racers use a 20x2.125 on the front and a 20x1.75 rear is cornering, you can go faster into a burm without the front end washing out! early 90s trail riders carried on this set up until 1.95 tyres became the norm in 95, knobbly up front and minimal tread on the rear(primo-dirt monster and v-monster)

[oldtired]

As above theory is more grip on the front , can be worse on harder packed tracks though due to the gap between the tread bumps if your using comp 3 type tires ,  personnally i don't like the fat tire up front ,


thinner rim means less rotation weight but you compromise on strength a little


  thinner rims can be used 20x1.5 , oddyssey did a t1000 rim that was thinner still not sure on the exact size  ,  1.5 rims can run 1.75 tires but a 1.5 tire sits better on the rim

20x1 1/8 rims are the ones used on mini race bikes , can be used on full size frames but you usually have brake alignment problems , plus most 1/8th rims are anly rated to about 60kg so a none starter for something going to be ridden by your average fat bloke 

[threaders]

Hi. Well I've made some progress today and it's been a while. First I got the frame powdered but I couldn't find a ral code to match for the colour I wanted. I had to take in a sample so that the powderers could do it in 2 pac. When it came back though it was to grey and very light blue.
I didn't have the time to take it back and I was still trying to find the right shade. I was looking at guitars as I'm a guitarist and found this 1959 fender start finished in daphne blue :)it was the exact shade.

I know a guitars finish is super durable and I could get the shade so I ordered 3 cans of nitrocellulose daphne blue spray and I deuce dead to finish it with 2 pac lacquer. It says you have to have a license for this type of paint but it t is the most durable spray paint ever. I've used acrylic, hammerite and rustoleum but they are all crap and flake way to easily. The nitrocellulose and 2 pac lacquer set like a rock and I reckon it's just as durable as the original 2pack finish that I originally got. End of the day super bike Dan would have been the best choice but normally my powdercoaters are very good it was just hard to find the right blue colour for this.
Anyway if your still reading most of the good stuff was bought on eBay, the three piece crank was from bmx works and I'm very happy with that, it's nice and light. Decals are on the way, just need a bottom bracket, seat guts and some cables.
All old school parts in terms of sizes just the 1 1/8 stem and 1 1/8 thread less headset. I'm hoping it will ride well and that tge 90s geometry will be better that the 80s ones. Here she is today

Thanks for looking

[Avro]

Liking the paint code sleuthing, I will have to try that for an orange I am after.
Super thread, thank you

[threaders]

This is the stuff I used. Not sure if the lacquer is nitrocellulose but it's what came up when I searched 2 PCs lacquer spray. It says dry and ready for polishing in 24 hours !! Super fast 

[pickle]

Loving the colour but I'd ditch the rear brake and go with a nice proper Canti brake, it'll look so much better and actually stop you