Mid-school brake problems 😩

[mivvi]

Hi all, I'm an old school guy but built a mid-school as a rider to see how I get on. Anyhow, managed to get mostly everything to fit and work but the rear brake ain't happening. It was missing the bridging cable and little clamp bit, so made a cable up and bought a generic clamp but its rubbish. I have tried to track down the correct bits but no luck. Do I need to just replace the whole brake? Any info would be much appreciated 👍

[Wayne Ryder]

I'd say lengthen the bridging cable. Doing that will allow the arms to squeeze together more, as it is they're being pulled almost in a straight line towards the seatpost because the cable's not long enough to bend either side of the clamp. It's hard to describe.
Try to get the cable bolt on the clamp to go quite close to the seatpost when you pull the brake.
I'm sure I saw some formula about this somewhere, probably by George French.

[mivvi]

That's some great advise Wayne. The cable I made is non-adjustable but have seen cables on the bay (quite long) but no adjustable clamp. Totally get what you are saying, I have made the cable so short, it is stopping the brake from functioning correctly. I will buy one of the long cables and see if I can get some suitable clamp to allow some adjustment. Thanks Wayne, much appreciated


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[Wayne Ryder]

No problem, I've battled these things many times and sometimes it's just a case of fiddling till it works.
I've used narrow and broad clamps like yours, fancy aluminium ones with grub screws to lock the straddle cable in place, clamps that have a pulleywheel so they stay centred (in theory), even spokes instead of a cable. After all that I'm back to a simple setup like yours because it works just fine once it's dialled.


A borrowed pic of the spoke mod, in case you wondered. Didn't improve anything for me:

[mivvi]

Ha some ingenious ideas there Wayne! Well been doing a bit of research and like you say a longer cable looks like the answer. I'm going to order one up and make some kind of clamp, so I can adjust the length and it will be a case of trial and error. I thought things would have got simpler as time moved on from old school but obviously not lol. Thanks again Wayne, yr a star


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[oldtired]

which brake calipers are you using ?






you just need a straddle cable, clamp and a hanger

cable can be an old brake cable inner dosn't have to be a specific straddle cable , use barrel on the cable for one side then one of these at the other

http://www.customriders.com/prodshow.asp?prodid=15680&cat=89&parent=1001&sid=3

or use two of the clamps on the old cable

lots of different hangers on the market,   as an eg

http://www.customriders.com/prodshow.asp?prodid=19128&cat=89&parent=1001&sid=3


if your brake has two barrel slots then this is job done in one go

http://www.customriders.com/prodshow.asp?prodid=20309&cat=89&parent=1001&sid=3

[poorboyee]

the good old "NARP" standardbykes invented those for shortening floppy old shitty gyro cables, back when people started running smaller/narrower bars! there very handy and cheap so I would buy maybe two or three, so you can then use *ANY* old bit of cable as a straddle the springs look very slack on that hombre the top-

Hi all, I'm an old school guy but built a mid-school as a rider to see how I get on. Anyhow, managed to get mostly everything to fit and work but the rear brake ain't happening. It was missing the bridging cable and little clamp bit, so made a cable up and bought a generic clamp but its rubbish. I have tried to track down the correct bits but no luck. Do I need to just replace the whole brake? Any info would be much appreciated 👍

-covers/nuts (green alloy) should be at 90degres, to ensure a nice solid recoil back to neutral when the brakes released

[oldtired]

yup     


  just be carefull if you order any  some of the "Knarps" are for giro cables such as the odyssey ones , they are smaller than the "clamp" i posted the link to,  which is for a calliper straddle cable 

[mivvi]

Thanks both, you have given me a wealth of info there and I have never heard of "Custom Riders" before, will be ordering loads now lol. I think it's a Hombre brake. It came with the frame, so don't know if it's just cheap rubbish or worth getting the bits for it. Don't want to spend a fortune on the bike as it's just a rider but new brakes seem very reasonable compared to old school parts. I like the look of those alloy hangers, look a lot more functional than the little metal ones. Thanks again both, I love this hobby and the community!!!


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[mivvi]

Thanks both, you have given me a wealth of info there and I have never heard of "Custom Riders" before, will be ordering loads now lol. I think it's a Hombre brake. It came with the frame, so don't know if it's just cheap rubbish or worth getting the bits for it. Don't want to spend a fortune on the bike as it's just a rider but new brakes seem very reasonable compared to old school parts. I like the look of those alloy hangers, look a lot more functional than the little metal ones. Thanks again both, I love this hobby and the community!!!


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[poorboyee]

the d/c-hombre brakes still one of the best u-brakes ever made, I'm still riding a pair of mk1 d/c-hombres from 98

on the left hand side of the brake is a "knarp" clamping the cable, just one of there many handy uses and possibilities

[mivvi]

Ah I see what you mean now. So it can be used as a side pull instead of a centre pull. I'm going to order a few bits and try a few different setups, just to see what works. I'm pleased that you rate the brakes, I hate buying new parts just cause I can, it's a waste. Cheers for all your help buddy


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[OllyHall]

Side pull for front only 

[mivvi]

Just an update as only just found time to put the bits on. Looks like it all functions a lot better but will have a test ride tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone who gave advise, it's much appreciated


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[poorboyee]

Just an update as only just found time to put the bits on. Looks like it all functions a lot better but will have a test ride tomorrow. Thanks again to everyone who gave advise, it's much appreciated


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looking shinny and clean plus tensioned much better, bet them clear blocks screech some thing rotten    

[oldtired]

   proper squeeky,    set the toe in quite big with those blocks probs about 5mm or bigger, you can also file the front edge at an angle,  reason is they are soft compound and will compress quite a bit flattning out most if not all the toe in if its too small, result being "SQEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEK!!!!!!"   

[mivvi]

Oh bugger! Thought I would treat  myself to new pads and saw someone in one of the forums saying they were fantastic, so ordered a couple of pairs. I will see how I get on, too busy today to get out but will try tomorrow. If you hear a sqeeeeeky sound tomorrow, it will be me. Thanks both


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[mivvi]

Sorry for sounding thick but is the toe the back edge of the pad? And do I just bend the calliper arm to create the correct angle?


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[richiebozza]

I believe that your brake pads should come with special angled washers that will allow you to angle the brake block either in or out. So you don't need to bend the caliper arms.
Check out from 2:55 of this video:

[mivvi]

Hi Richie, thanks so much for the info, you were right about the washers, I fitted the pads and wondered what they were for, now I know. And the video is great, thanks for posting it. Yr a star


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[poorboyee]

Hi Richie, thanks so much for the info, you were right about the washers, I fitted the pads and wondered what they were for, now I know. And the video is great, thanks for posting it. Yr a star


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hope you used all "PARK-TOOLS" as advised, or you risk spontaneous combustion and sure DOOOOOOM