My New Mid School Bmx Frame and other bits the build begins

[AceFto]

Hi Guys My Name is Ace (Abid)

Grew up in cricklewood then moved to Wembley in early 2000
back in the day mid 90's had a good few BMX's

my favourite one was a Freestyler in chrome with build in stunt pegs on the front forks
and on the rear lower frame, along with black mags and gold brakes omg those were the days I use to ride everywhere and be out till late lol now I'm going to be 35 this year



















this bike frame has a brake which needs to be fitted at the bottom of it and is that some kind of a special brake i'm looking for would prefer it in gold if possible before I order those shiny gold levers

thanks chaps

[Midschoolfool]

I don't think that seat clamp will fit fella. It says 25.4, which is the post size of your bike, not the overall frame size.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6inch-LCD-Digital-Vernier-Caliper-Electronic-Gauge-Micrometer-Measurement-/222410321533?hash=item33c8b02e7d:g:j7YAAOSwtfhYpBaY

I suggest one of those before you buy anything else. I've forgotten the clamp size you need...

OK mine is 28.6mm. Yours may possibly be the same, but get yourself a pair of those calipers any way. They're incredibly useful

And hey, don't buy anything else until you run it past us. I should have taken my own advice, that's why I ended up buying three bloody headsets

[workshyfop]

the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.

if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.

[Midschoolfool]

the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.

if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.

Yup. Thankfully I have sent him a reasonable tasteful set of black levers he can use.

[AceFto]

I don't think that seat clamp will fit fella. It says 25.4, which is the post size of your bike, not the overall frame size.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6inch-LCD-Digital-Vernier-Caliper-Electronic-Gauge-Micrometer-Measurement-/222410321533?hash=item33c8b02e7d:g:j7YAAOSwtfhYpBaY

I suggest one of those before you buy anything else. I've forgotten the clamp size you need...

OK mine is 28.6mm. Yours may possibly be the same, but get yourself a pair of those calipers any way. They're incredibly useful

And hey, don't buy anything else until you run it past us. I should have taken my own advice, that's why I ended up buying three bloody headsets

damn lucky I didn't buy those levers lesson learnt 

[AceFto]

the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.

if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.

ah now I understand its the modern looking brakes like these ?

thank you for that

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Complete-Mountain-BMX-bicycle-Brake-Levers-V-brakes-Cables-front-rear-/261863137484?hash=item3cf84260cc:g:UGwAAOSwcL5XMaNf

old skool brakes out the window lol

[workshyfop]

the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.

if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.

ah now I understand its the modern looking brakes like these ?

thank you for that

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Complete-Mountain-BMX-bicycle-Brake-Levers-V-brakes-Cables-front-rear-/261863137484?hash=item3cf84260cc:g:UGwAAOSwcL5XMaNf

old skool brakes out the window lol

no, they are v brakes. you need a u brake. as you will be running a caliper brake on the front, as the forks have no u brake lugs, you will need different levers for each style of brake. you will need a short pull for the caliper brake and a long pull for the u brake.

[AceFto]

I'm so blind lol thanks again

[Midschoolfool]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coyote-BMX-U-Brake-Calliper-239g-with-Kit-Anodized-RRP-19-99-/201605642026?var=500829974680&hash=item2ef0a1f72a:g:jyQAAOSwM4xXY4Vd

There you go dude, one gold U brake with all the fittings.

V brake lugs are thinner and usually come on race bikes. They would snap if you did flatland with them for example. If you don't want a front brake don't bother. If you do?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-Compe-Bulldog-Rear-Brake-Oldschool-BMX-Mid-School-Burner-Mongoose-/222422247973?var=&hash=item33c9662a25:m:m17GDNZhvo5kTAFodv1_lkg

Would do it

[AceFto]

Hi Andrew thanks for the bits mate received on weekend 

seat clamp is 28.5mm I ordered the wrong one lol

and thank you for the link ordered the MultiMeter

should have the crank set and the headset fitted by the end of this week

been offered wheels for the bike but the thread nut is 15mm ??

would some nice big stunt pegs fit 15mm nut as all my bmx's back in the day had 14mm nuts

thanks   

[Midschoolfool]

Hmm. I think if the nut is 15mm then the wheels are usually 10mm axles. When you get your vernier caliper you can measure your dropouts, but I think they are 10mm. They were on mine (same frame) but mine did not have 990 brake lugs so was an earlier model.

I think if the axle is 14mm then the nut is usually 17mm. Bikes all went to 14mm during the mid school with deep lip 48s but it seems that 10mm and 36 hole wheels are coming back now. I guess with hardly any one using pegs these days you don't need 14mm, and these new school guys seem to be obsessed with having the lightest bike possible.

With the vernier you use one side to measure the outer size and the other side to measure internal stuff, but you could slap a tape measure over the dropouts and get a reasonably good idea.

No worries on the parts man. Glad they will see some use

Oh and annoyingly I actually have a black seat clamp that came on the Quadangle I have restored, could have sent that too. They're not expensive though, very popular size. I bought a Hope racing (made in UK) which was about £12 IIRC but that's like top drawer.

Looking forward to more pics

[ED209]

Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?

 

[Midschoolfool]

Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?

 

Are they still in business? I could swear that's who I bought mine from in around 1998.

I don't think his frame is recent. The seller who sold it to him has a load of stuff, all from 96-99. Like specific SE parts for example.

[OllyHall]

Think it's a heavy tools and not a pro-lite

[Midschoolfool]

Think it's a heavy tools and not a pro-lite

Yeah that is what the seller had it listed as

[ED209]

Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?

 

Are they still in business? I could swear that's who I bought mine from in around 1998.

I don't think his frame is recent. The seller who sold it to him has a load of stuff, all from 96-99. Like specific SE parts for example.

They were in business as BMX City but the warehouse is gone and they have close down now ... they are the reason that every Facebook Mid school page is full of Sun rims for sale 

[ED209]

This is the frame I got ... looks the same to me ... and as Olly says, a lot like a Heavy Tools Screamer :-)

This frame would really suit some mid 90s parts ... please don't use those bars! :-)

[ED209]

Mid 90s = chunky :-)

http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/heavy_tools/69250

[ Attachment: You are not allowed to view attachments ]

[AceFto]

Hi Guys sorry for a late reply just been busy with work
ordered a new seat clamp last night after measuring it correctly lol
and a new old stock chrome seat post
this evening hopefully will have headset forks handlebar on
the rear brake arrived yesterday so hopefully not long now

the seller always has another frame up for sale every time one sells he has sold 3 since I've purchased mine
must say he is very helpful

will upload more pics tomorrow 

[AceFto]

Hi Guys

this is how it is from last night















still waiting for seat post to arrive, black seat going on.
Awaiting for odyssey sprocket as I messaged a seller on ebay and he did not reply at all hence why I purchased another one which has not arrived yet. Picked up a nice gold chain from halfords they gave me a hand to put the bearings and crank in the young lad was so chuffed he couldn't wait to work on the bike.

I have a slight problem if you look at the headset I have a big gap as the lock nut has a lip which wont allow the nut to screw down fully I also need a spacer for it any pointers will be great.
 




can't believe it finally coming along together

[Midschoolfool]

Hmm might need cutting down.

Looking good though man

[Spen69]

Let me have a look in my box of crap as i think I have a deep top-nut and a higher top race with a few washers that might take that spare length of thread up for you.

If that fails I wouldn't cut the threads as a first choice, but if you do, make sure you screw the top race on right to the bottom of the threads out the way before you cut. Then file the burs off the threaded area you'very cut before slowly winding the top race back off again to clear the threads up as best you can, or you may never get the threads aligned enough to rebuild it.

[ED209]

Please get rid of those bars ... I know all the 'build what you want' crap .. but this is the Mid School section so please ... put some mid school bars on it ... they are mid 80s bars on a mid 90s bike.

for £20 .. these would look 100000000 times better

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-MONKEY-BAR-TYPE-FREESTYLER-HANDLEBAR-SUIT-MODERN-OR-OLD-SCHOOL-BMX-/182469888085?hash=item2a7c0d8855:m:m-Mzg0W_e163Hmk2AUrd55A

even these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-PRETZEL-TYPE-HANDLEBARS-IDEAL-DYNO-GTS-OLD-SCHOOL-FREESTYLE-BMX-BIKES-/391704675038?hash=item5b336b02de:g:G9kAAOxy63FTAdQv

 

[AceFto]

Hmm might need cutting down.

Looking good though man

Thanks Man

[AceFto]

Let me have a look in my box of crap as i think I have a deep top-nut and a higher top race with a few washers that might take that spare length of thread up for you.

If that fails I wouldn't cut the threads as a first choice, but if you do, make sure you screw the top race on right to the bottom of the threads out the way before you cut. Then file the burs off the threaded area you'very cut before slowly winding the top race back off again to clear the threads up as best you can, or you may never get the threads aligned enough to rebuild it.

that would be great Spen would save me messing about with it and thats good info