Author Topic: Recommended new school ride (Read 6365 times)

richiebozza · « **on:** November 27, 2016, 11:09 PM »

Word up peeps!

I am thinking of buying a new BMX, what are the current best quality bikes I should be considering? I'm familiar with the brands, but don't actually know which are actually worth messing with.

My primary interest is street and vert, with flatland as a third choice.

I'm drawn to Total (because that's what Mark Webb rides!) and Harry Main signing with Mafia opened my eyes to them, although they are mostly high tensile which instinctively makes me shiver...but maybe I need to get over that?

Cheers!

fugazi · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2016, 11:52 PM »

You're making a wise choice going new school

Are you looking to buy a complete or build around a frame? New or used?

richiebozza · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2016, 12:19 AM »

Ideally I'd like to buy a complete ride.
I am quite happy with used; it's always nice to enjoy the box fresh smell of a new puurchase but if I can get more bang for my buck then used is all good.

phildaw · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2016, 11:22 AM »

Hi, new school are great.... Personally, I would avoid mafia, but that is only an image thing rather than based on logic...

I would look for a 2016 complete on blow out.. Haro, Premium, Colony are all good completes and don't carry the premium pricing that Cult/Fit etc do. Oh, and don't forget hoffman which came out with a great cheap range last year, even better now they are on discount..

https://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/80783/Hoffman_Lady_Luck_20Inch_2016_BMX_Bike

Just look for full cromo, sealed bearings.. and size can be a factor as you are more limited on completes, 20.5 for 5'6" to 5'8" ish.. 21" if you taller.. maybe look at bar size, top load stem to raise the front end up.

deeman · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2016, 11:55 AM »

If you are looking new skool then second hand is much better value....there are loads of new skool bargains on ebay at any one time. Just make sure you get one with a full crmo frame....

76 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2016, 07:17 PM »

Quote from: phildaw on November 28, 2016, 11:22 AM

Hi, new school are great.... Personally, I would avoid mafia, but that is only an image thing rather than based on logic...

I would look for a 2016 complete on blow out.. Haro, Premium, Colony are all good completes and don't carry the premium pricing that Cult/Fit etc do. Oh, and don't forget hoffman which came out with a great cheap range last year, even better now they are on discount..

https://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/80783/Hoffman_Lady_Luck_20Inch_2016_BMX_Bike

Just look for full cromo, sealed bearings.. and size can be a factor as you are more limited on completes, 20.5 for 5'6" to 5'8" ish.. 21" if you taller.. maybe look at bar size, top load stem to raise the front end up.

Does a top load stem make a big difference?

oldtired · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2016, 09:06 PM »

a top load stem is said to make manuals easier, pivot point is closer to the top of the forks, or some similar scientific reason

, no doubt if you ask around you'll get other valid reasons as well as reasons for using a front load
could just be the fact the bars will be a little higher with a top load stem , tbh i've run both with combinations of big and small bars, n i still can't manual for shite

76 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2016, 10:08 PM »

Quote from: oldtired on November 28, 2016, 09:06 PM

a top load stem is said to make manuals easier, pivot point is closer to the top of the forks, or some similar scientific reason , no doubt if you ask around you'll get other valid reasons as well as reasons for using a front load
could just be the fact the bars will be a little higher with a top load stem , tbh i've run both with combinations of big and small bars, n i still can't manual for shite

Thanks, mines currently a front load and from memory I'm fairly sure all my bikes (new skool) have been this way, I may have a little dabble with a top loader and see how it feels.

I still can't manual either

but am working on it

One day I'll get it.

richiebozza · « **Reply #8 on:** November 28, 2016, 10:36 PM »

Thanks for all the suggestions, cracking.

Notice Wethepeople didn't get a mention, what's the verdict on them?

Spen69 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 29, 2016, 12:19 AM »

Wethepeople are great as long as you go top end full chromo and sealed everything

I picked up a mint secondhand WTP Zodiac about a year ago and it is a cracking all round rider, especially on ramps.

Definitely go secondhand to start with and then figure out what you want ie size and geometry then buy a specific frameset and chuck the bits on. Job done

VOIVOD · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2016, 12:32 AM »

I`d say Spen is spot on,WTP are pretyyy good and go for used or last years model for value for money.I wouldn`t piss on anything by Mafia-lost count of how many of those that I`ve repaired.As for stems,not all toploaders are higher than frontload stems unless you go for a riser/upload stem.Check the stems on the link as an example.http://www.socialbikeco.com/parts/

deeman · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2016, 12:43 AM »

Quote from: 76 on November 28, 2016, 10:08 PM

Quote from: oldtired on November 28, 2016, 09:06 PM
a top load stem is said to make manuals easier, pivot point is closer to the top of the forks, or some similar scientific reason , no doubt if you ask around you'll get other valid reasons as well as reasons for using a front load
could just be the fact the bars will be a little higher with a top load stem , tbh i've run both with combinations of big and small bars, n i still can't manual for shite

Thanks, mines currently a front load and from memory I'm fairly sure all my bikes (new skool) have been this way, I may have a little dabble with a top loader and see how it feels.

I still can't manual either but am working on it One day I'll get it.

There is a very good how to manual on Scotty Cranmers channel on you tune where he is teaching his mate 'big boy' how to manual...he gets it in minutes

richiebozza · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2016, 05:20 AM »

Top stuff thanks, great knowledge!

One last question if that's cool...if I want to add a gyro to a modern ride do I need to make sure the frame has intergrated gyro tabs, or do gyros sit under the headset like old school bikes? (Or does a 'sealed headset' mean you can't undo it to fit a gyro under it?)

WINI · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2016, 09:22 AM »

Quote from: richiebozza on November 28, 2016, 10:36 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions, cracking.

Notice Wethepeople didn't get a mention, what's the verdict on them?

I have an almost complete, brand new WTP Versus package up for sale atm. Full chromo frame and forks that have never been ridden and quality new parts from Odyssey, Subrosa and the like. It's missing wheels and bars, but is a complete steal and will give you a box-fresh quality NS for very cheap. Let me know if you're interested and I'll get you a run down and pics.

P.S, I've had two WTP Versus and they've been fantastic...

workshyfop · « **Reply #14 on:** November 29, 2016, 10:43 AM »

have a verde here that want rid of...dirt cheap, £180 posted. almost as new, daughter used it a couple of times and been under the stairs in a box since...

full chromo f&f, chromo bars, duo tyres/pedals/seat, cinema wheelset with female hubs, sealed everything.

spec here : http://verdebmx.com/2012/spectrum.html

its the blue, the matt paint has been polished and looks like a midnight blue metalflake now. its basically in new condition still, Spen had his WTP off me and this is in the same condition as that was, bought them both the same time new.send me a PM if you are interested..

76 · « **Reply #15 on:** November 29, 2016, 09:56 PM »

Quote from: deeman on November 29, 2016, 12:43 AM

Quote from: 76 on November 28, 2016, 10:08 PM
Quote from: oldtired on November 28, 2016, 09:06 PM
a top load stem is said to make manuals easier, pivot point is closer to the top of the forks, or some similar scientific reason , no doubt if you ask around you'll get other valid reasons as well as reasons for using a front load
could just be the fact the bars will be a little higher with a top load stem , tbh i've run both with combinations of big and small bars, n i still can't manual for shite

Thanks, mines currently a front load and from memory I'm fairly sure all my bikes (new skool) have been this way, I may have a little dabble with a top loader and see how it feels.

I still can't manual either but am working on it One day I'll get it.

There is a very good how to manual on Scotty Cranmers channel on you tune where he is teaching his mate 'big boy' how to manual...he gets it in minutes

I've watched that recently and the following session they were coming on better than they had been

But work on my house and colder weather has slowed things down.........for now

fugazi · « **Reply #16 on:** November 30, 2016, 05:02 PM »

Some great advice given so far

I would add though, if you're going to ride a lot of vert you don't really want a frame with a high bottom bracket & a real short back end, too twitchy!