tuff neck stem stripping

[Geordie]

lo all, i've just received a nos tuff neck stem this morning but it's black and i need it to be silver. i dont know if it's black paint or anno so i dont know which product to use to strip it. anyone got any ideas? also is there anywhere that i can get a new tuff neck sticker for it as the white one thats on it will probably come off when it's stripped.

thanks paul............

[oberonspacefruit]

heat/hairdryer will remove the sticker. take it easy or it may crinkle.

try nitromors first, which will work for paint. it wont harm the alloy. then polish it with autosol.

if not, oven pride, or caustic soda, will remove anodisation. dont try this first if you are not sure, cos the caustic will get through any nicks in the paint and start eating the alloy while you are wondering why its not coming off.

[macmark]

I've got the Tuf-Neck logo done as rub offs.



£1.50 posted

Cheers

Mark

[Geordie]

hi mark can i take 2 of them please. pm me your details. the logo looks like it's printed onto the stem top rather than a sticker, i know this sounds stupid but i cant see the edges of a sticker anywhere and the logos not engraved at all into the stem. see pics



is nitromors as toxic to use as caustic/oven pride? will i need gloves & a mask etc?

thanks paul............

[selfpreservation]

caustic soda is a very dangerous and volitile chemical use oven pride instead and get the same results , if its anno, nitromors will burn your skin yes use gloves , dont even think about going near caustic without every part of your skin covered especially your eyes , do it outside and read the instructions . watch when you are scraping paint when using nitromors cause bits can flick off and get your eyes which is unpleasent

[macmark]

These rub downs are as thin as a very thin thing BUT there will be a small amount of clear substrate around the decal. I've trimmed them as close as I dare without affecting the decal. I'm told by the guy I got the material from that 1 or 2 thin coats of clear varnish/laquer will hide any edges. He uses the stuff for presentation model making. If you're still interested let me know and I'll get some sent to you tomorrow.

I'll send application instructions too.

Cheers

Mark

[Steve P]

I restored and polished a Tuf Neck stem not so long ago and make my own decals in various colours too





I use the caustic method to strip the anodise as I reckon it's the most effective. I have done this many times before so I understand all the necessary precautions with using caustic in a well ventilated area (preferrably outside) and I always wear rubber gloves

No before pics I'm afraid but here's the finished result



With a new decal applied



Hope this helps

Steve 

[Waxintaxin]

Nice health and safety advice guys ... nice. I like it , keep it up

Rich

[Geordie]

so steve was yours anno'd not paint? what colour was it? there a some very ingenious people on here (making there own stickers etc).

p.s. that ta you've just finished is the dogs b******s m8!!

[Steve P]

Most Tuf Neck are anodised unless it's white, orange and green, etc

That stem of mine was originally black anodise and well used so it needed plenty of TLC with various grades of wet'n'dry to remove any marks prior to polishing . . . I prefer to remove the quill which helps make any prep work easier with flat sanding, etc

Thanks for your comments on my latest TA too mate . . . you're building one at the moment I see



Steve

[Waxintaxin]

Nice TA mate

so those stickers are tough , not just vinyl

Rich

[Geordie]

yes i'm on with my ta now, similar spec and colours to yours, hope it turns out half as sweet as that.

anyone got any idea what it would cost to get this stem re-anno'd in either red or blue? and how long turnaround on them normally takes? just in case i balls the stripping up..

thanks paul.....

[Steve P]

Nice TA mate . . . so those stickers are tough , not just vinyl

Thanks Rich

The stickers are very hard wearing. They're printed in reverse and then a thin protective sheet is stuck on top to prevent ink damage. The paper is called "dry rub off decal paper" and it's available in both white and clear for use with inkjet and laser printers. I bought mine off the bay

yes i'm on with my ta now, similar spec and colours to yours, hope it turns out half as sweet as that.

anyone got any idea what it would cost to get this stem re-anno'd in either red or blue? and how long turnaround on them normally takes? just in case i balls the stripping up..

Paul . . . the stem can be anodised in most colours depending on who does it and what colour batches they are doing at that time. If you're worried about doing the stem I'd suggest getting it to a decent anodiser and let them sort it for you instead mate . . . I think Vert-ego may be able to help

Steve

[Geordie]

i'll try the strip first and if i get stuck it's off to get anno'd thanks all for the advice..

paul.....

[Waxintaxin]

Problem with re annoing it is that he quill is pressed into the alloy stem with high pressure , so u have to get the quill out as you can not anno steel , when the quill is out then unless you have an industrian press the only thing holding the stem together is the big bolt, fine for show no good as a rider

Rich

[Steve P]

Problem with re annoing it is that he quill is pressed into the alloy stem with high pressure , so u have to get the quill out as you can not anno steel , when the quill is out then unless you have an industrian press the only thing holding the stem together is the big bolt, fine for show no good as a rider

Most of the quills have come out of my stems quite easily. I normally clamp an old steel seat post into the stem to help undo the main bolt first. I then knock the quill out with a heavy rubber mallet but if that fails I will use a workshop press which I am lucky enough to have access to

When refitting the quill I use the seat post to help tighten the main bolt and apply bearing lock fluid to the quill to ensure a secure fit

Steve