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I have had issues with anodising (not Jay) Old member on here (Ronster) made me a new school sized hutch style seatclamp, it was a beauty, polished, it looked flawless, after a while, when having a few other bits anno'd blue locally, I decided i'd chuck the clamp in too.When I went to collect it, the guy was really apologetic, every thing was spot on, apart from the clamp, was real patchy and dull, looked bloody awful, so he stripped it in front of me, and it was beautiful shiny ally!It was machined from a bit of billet, and as Ronnie works for an F1 team, i'm sure it was a good quality lump, but maybe the runny hot metal wasn't stirred up properly in the billet foundry. MM
SBD has done all of my powder coating and the few times i have given him a frame/forks that have problems he has always spoken to me BEFORE going any further with the work and i must say every time he has suggest which way to got the fix comes out spot on.
Quote from: skki3330 on May 20, 2015, 10:05 PMSBD has done all of my powder coating and the few times i have given him a frame/forks that have problems he has always spoken to me BEFORE going any further with the work and i must say every time he has suggest which way to got the fix comes out spot on.Completely different process's. With powdercoating you'd know of any problems before you started. With anodising you are likely to only to find out after you've started. And by then it can be too late. A lot of old bmx parts are crap to anodise. Back when they were made the anodising company knew what aluminium was used to made the part. Therefore they'd know any pre/post anodising process's for that grade of aluminium, some of them are essential to prevent pitting on cast etc. Anodising old parts now - you would have no idea of the grade or how well it anodises (forgetting billet for a minute). Any corrosion (and a lot of parts have been bare aluminium for 20 years) will show, stripping the anodising makes the putting worse and then anodising will make the pitting worse again. It need to be removed but that isn't always possible. I've had NOS billet parts still in original packaging that are pitted. They look fine until they are re-anodised and then show the pitting. So, there as lots of reasons anodising goes wrong, usually it's because of the aluminium used in the part and you can't really blame the anodiser for that!She's obviously done a lot to try and sort them out. I'm sure it would have been the same outcome if you'd used a company with a minimum order in three figures, only difference being they'd have given them back to you and not tried to rectify them.
Anyone got the pics of the profile cruiser with all the holes in it after being stripped ?