Author Topic: Need some help, Ripper resto (Read 2924 times)

leed · « **on:** April 22, 2015, 10:12 PM »

Ok guys, as you may have seen for my hello message, I have a project. I'm planing on riding it, so wont be going to concourse condition. I bought the mx1000's, seat and lay back when I first got it about 9 years ago from Alans and I've just bought the comp III's as the tubes were busting out the sides of the old tyres.

Anyhow, first question, sorting the rust. I never liked the bars so if someone could recommend something else that would be great. The DK stem needs some work as well, but I reckon will polish up? I always had a Suntour ones

I was going to try the citric acid on the forks? Where's the best place to get some drip landing gear decals?

And onto the frame, I'd love to get it powder coated but my limited research/knowledge I don't seem to be able to find those baby blue drip decals (are they even original?)

I'm not keen on the pedals either, but I almost fell off my chair seeing the price of some NOS DX'es

Anything else I should do/look at?

Also anyone hazard a guess to the age?

Many thanks for any help
Cheers
Lee

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leed · « **Reply #1 on:** April 22, 2015, 10:17 PM »

Few more images.
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CustardLips · « **Reply #2 on:** April 22, 2015, 10:37 PM »

Tidy survivor that mate.

You need citric or oxalic acid (citric is more user friendly) to soak the chrome parts in to shift the rust then just give em a polish.

Superbikedan is the man for a powder coating. You can pm him on here. Here's some of his work.
http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,56789.0.html

Del is the man for stickers. Get hold of him on del@delcalsigns.co.uk . Here's some of his work.
http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,77984.0.html

If you need to know anything else just ask... someone'll point you in the right direction.

CustardLips · « **Reply #3 on:** April 22, 2015, 10:41 PM »

Oh yeh... some nice SE powerwings or GT pro bars would do the trick and sell me them Boss bars.

chubby · « **Reply #4 on:** April 22, 2015, 10:54 PM »

Exactly what Mr lips said, can't go wrong with getting work or advice off them fellas

john4130 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 23, 2015, 06:04 AM »

i reckon the frame is a 1986 or 1987, not sure for certain though. definately not any earlier than that.

pickle · « **Reply #6 on:** April 23, 2015, 08:09 AM »

You need Mr SE Kungfunky to tell you the year but i reckon more like early 90's due to the built in seat clamp but i'm no SE expert.

One thing i wouldn't use though is the layback post, Rippers seat tubes were never a strong point and a layback will only add more pressure to that area.

Lovely ride though mate

stidds · « **Reply #7 on:** April 23, 2015, 08:22 AM »

Correct me if I am wrong but that style Ripper with the built in seat post clamp was actually introduced in 1985.

58 delray · « **Reply #8 on:** April 23, 2015, 11:00 AM »

i would need to see a photo of the area behind the BB but if it has a hole drilled for a pit bull brake then it an 87 if it doesnt then its an 86

leed · « **Reply #9 on:** April 23, 2015, 03:48 PM »

Thanks guys, I'll PM the contacts. Anyone got any GT bars to sell

No hole behind BB, whoohoo

Should I replace the BB and headset while they're out? Or just give them a good service?

Also I've noticed I've a Sunshine front hub and a Suzue rear hub is that normal?

CustardLips · « **Reply #10 on:** April 23, 2015, 04:36 PM »

Quote from: leed on April 23, 2015, 03:48 PM

Should I replace the BB and headset while they're out? Or just give them a good service?

If they're rusty or tarnished give all the bits a soak in the citric or oxalic acid (whichever you decide to use), then wirewool em then give a polish with some Peek polish. They'll come up a treat.

CustardLips · « **Reply #11 on:** April 23, 2015, 04:42 PM »

Quote from: CustardLips on April 23, 2015, 04:36 PM

Quote from: leed on April 23, 2015, 03:48 PM

Should I replace the BB and headset while they're out? Or just give them a good service?

If they're rusty or tarnished give all the bits a soak in the citric or oxalic acid (whichever you decide to use), then wirewool em then give a polish with some Peek polish. They'll come up a treat.

If the bearing cases are still intact soak em in turps to get all the shite out. If they're fooked just ditch em and get some new ones from your local bike shop.

Ady · « **Reply #12 on:** April 23, 2015, 10:52 PM »

kitchen foil and warm water is great for removing rust spots inc tarnished bit and bobs..
Worked a treat on my gt pro performer and rebel pro survivors

rotorist · « **Reply #13 on:** April 24, 2015, 07:45 AM »

Hi Lee,

Pleased to see you made your way over here and good to finally see the bike after it's spell in the attic

.

Del sorted some decals for me too so agree with the recommendation.

If you are interested in any of the blue bits from my DP Delta II which can be seen in my prior to stripping and rebuilding thread (that reminds me I must post up some pics of it now built) then you can have them for a pint, they are however tatty.

Cheers
Keith

CustardLips · « **Reply #14 on:** April 24, 2015, 09:19 AM »

Lee you don't wanna be using tinfoil on chrome parts... it will scratch the chrome. Use the citric/oxalic as suggested and let it do the work for you.

Here oldschoolace's step by step citric acid thread.

http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,178383.0.html

BMX1973 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 24, 2015, 11:39 AM »

Pedals - why don't you try a pair of Victor DX? Cheaper than the Shimano's. Use them on my daily riders all the time.

leed · « **Reply #16 on:** April 24, 2015, 01:05 PM »

Quote from: BMX1973 on April 24, 2015, 11:39 AM

Pedals - why don't you try a pair of Victor DX? Cheaper than the Shimano's. Use them on my daily riders all the time.

How about these Haro Fusion things?
http://www.alansbmx.com/197733/products/haro_fusion_pedals_silver_9_16.aspx

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #17 on:** April 24, 2015, 02:27 PM »

its a gen 2 frame . 85 onwards. chip another bit of that paint off the back to see the year .

looks like an 86 or newer . it has curved chainstays .
86 . 87 s on had some sort of cable holders on the down tube . f knows why .

griff · « **Reply #18 on:** April 24, 2015, 11:34 PM »

Quote from: Ady on April 23, 2015, 10:52 PM

kitchen foil and warm water is great for removing rust spots inc tarnished bit and bobs..
Worked a treat on my gt pro performer and rebel pro survivors

Noooo!

You'll still put minute scratches on there with foil - use citric/oxalic acid and follow up with Peek polish
Plenty of info in the tech/resto section

oldschoolace · « **Reply #19 on:** April 24, 2015, 11:47 PM »

+1 on not using tin foil.
Foil is only softer than chrome until it starts to pick up shit.... which it does straight away. Might as well twat your stem out the steerer tube with a hammer while you are at it

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #20 on:** April 25, 2015, 11:45 AM »

Yeah. A claw hammer at an angle.

BMX1973 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2015, 10:12 PM »

They would work fine.

They are repop, but no point wrecking a set of Shimano's on a rider.

Quote from: leed on April 24, 2015, 01:05 PM

Quote from: BMX1973 on April 24, 2015, 11:39 AM

Pedals - why don't you try a pair of Victor DX? Cheaper than the Shimano's. Use them on my daily riders all the time.

How about these Haro Fusion things?
http://www.alansbmx.com/197733/products/haro_fusion_pedals_silver_9_16.aspx

kungfunky · « **Reply #22 on:** April 26, 2015, 08:23 AM »

First thing... Don't re finish that frame, original "early" frames are getting harder and harder to find. I can appreciate you wanting a different colour or a mint looking frame and you'll find one easy enough. On the phone it looks like an 86 as mentioned, definitely not earlier. These frames are much stronger when it comes to using a layback post compared to the Loopy ones so you should be ok, providing your diet is not exclusive to take aways.!.

58 delray · « **Reply #23 on:** April 27, 2015, 09:47 AM »

Quote from: stidds on April 23, 2015, 08:22 AM

Correct me if I am wrong but that style Ripper with the built in seat post clamp was actually introduced in 1985.

you are sort of correct sean, yes the built in seat clamp was introduced in 85 but the bottom chainstays were straight not angled like on this one, this style came out in 86, this also has no pitbull mount which was introduced in 87 so it make it an 86

58 delray · « **Reply #24 on:** April 27, 2015, 09:48 AM »

Quote from: bobbbbsy on April 24, 2015, 02:27 PM

its a gen 2 frame . 85 onwards. chip another bit of that paint off the back to see the year .

looks like an 86 or newer . it has curved chainstays .
86 . 87 s on had some sort of cable holders on the down tube . f knows why .

cable holders were not on the 86/87, they came in on the 89

Author Topic: Need some help, Ripper resto (Read 2924 times)

griff