Fitting newschool Blank ICS cranks,having problems!!

[paulb113]

My bike has Salt cranks on and I just got some chrome Blank ICS but having problems, they are a thicker crank so when I put the left side on they wouldn't fit on fully but I found a smaller plastic spacer or whatever they are and that fitted, bit too small and maybe need a washer inbetween or maybe there is a middle size? but on the chainwheel side it wont go on all the way, do the 8 spline axles move? or can they be turned round, or do they do longer ones?

Thanks

[pickle]

Sounds like you need a few spacers on the axle.

Put some pictures up

[oldtired]

did the new cranks come with an axle?

[paulb113]

[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/10/b845ad492bae3d0a104420512a0f57cb.jpg[/IMG

Crank is thicker so axle won't go all the way in,how does the axle stay in place or can it be turned round? I just bought the arms

[paulb113]

[IMG]http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/10/b845ad492bae3d0a104420512a0f57cb.jpg[/IMG

Crank is thicker so axle won't go all the way in,how does the axle stay in place or can it be turned round? I just bought the arms

[pickle]

Looks like you need the right axle

[oldtired]

yup think you need a longer axle , looking at the one fitted your going to need about 10mm either side,  i assume its a sealed mid bb not a loose ball one ?  if its loose ball your stuffed as there is no adjustment in the axle if its a sealed bb then......

have a look at ,  how big  or  how many are  the spacers on the other  non drive side ?   you may be able to loose some or use thinner ones to free up some axle length ,

 however note    you may find the axle is not long enough to allow for correct spacing of the arms relative to the chainstay , usually between 5 - 10mm  ish  at the pedal boss depending on how thick the chainwheel is , the drive side is more or less set by the chainwheel and top hat / spacer so all the adjustment has to be done on the non drive side  ,   should end up with the same distance from the chainstay either side at the pedal boss , with the end of the axle roughly about 1-2mm below the flat face in the crank arm where the bolt sits


also get the crud off the chain wheel  Griff'll be having kittens if he see's that 

[paulb113]

you may be able to loose some or use thinner ones to free up some axle length ,


So I think I could free up some space on the non driver side, should the axle move freely ? it does look like a sealed bearing. The bike is a WTP Zodiac 2011 I think. Never taken a new school crank,bottom bracket apart before

[oldtired]

the axle may be rusted to the bearings , try some wd40 or similar on the axle,  it should push out with a bit force  ,i suggest no2 hammer 

 post up some more pics of the existing crank fitted ,   pretty sure you're going to need a new axle though, judging by the size of the boss on the new crank , as i said you may struggle to get the spacing right

[paulb113]

I just bought a bike off a guy for a friends kid and the chrome cranks were fitted to it but he changed cranks to reduce the price and put Salt cranks on it, so I could try to swap them over as I still have the other bike here. Got my front brake on{just need to get a better linear cable} stripped the wedge seatpost so going to cut the fixed one off.

Cant sort my front wheel out so may get some new wheels, can get some Éclat Trippin wheels for £60 in green, don t know if they are good and worth that?

[paulb113]

Cranks are on, integrated seatgpost cut off and wedge post fitted, front linear cable fitted and new bearings for front wheel ordered so getting there