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RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Mid School BMX (>87) 1989 to 2003 (<05)  |  Mid School ( Keep the faith )  |  Purchased Dyno Compe to rob the bits for my GT Performer, but......
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Author Topic: Purchased Dyno Compe to rob the bits for my GT Performer, but......  (Read 1046 times)

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Offline kelvyn

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When I collected it its actually to good to break for parts, so I now have 2 bikes to restore.

The Dyno is like it has never been used, no marks on the pedals, handlebars etc, GT tyres still have bubbles on just very rust frame etc y, so now got to find someone to do me some stickers & re-Chrome


Offline EDBANGER

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Before you go to the expense of re-chroming it buy yourself a bag of citric acid off ebay.  Use 8 ounces to every 3.8 litres of water and fill a container in which you can fit all the rusty parts.  Leave it for 24 hours and the rust will either have fallen off or will brush off with some light rubbing with 0000 wire wool.  I used the kitchen bin to do my frame and used a whole 2kg bag of Citris Acid.  The water can be reused as many times as you like aswell.  Citric acid isn't as nasty as Oxalic Acid and you can pour it straight down the sink after use.  Or you can empty your toilet bowl and leave it to sit in there for a while for the cleanest toilet you'll ever have.  Here's the parts I did........






Offline Dannywhac

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Yep - no offence to the bike but you'd be able to buy a minters one of em for less money than it would cop you for a rechrome.

And yep - CA is way better than OA - but to be fair I've only ever got a couple of goes out of the same water - once it turns to the same colour and consistency as your own p1ss after drinking four pints of coffee, find it doesn't work nearly as well.

Also little tip - if you're using a big container, pop a load of buckets/pop bottles full of water in with the parts - it decreases the amount of water your bits are in so you can use less citric. Also get an old toothbrush and give the rusty bits a going over every 6 hours or so - shifts the rust quicker.
"Listen. I don't care what you say. Chlamydia is a soup." (Phelps, L. 2000)

Offline kelvyn

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 :slayer: Thanks
Will I need to replace the decals to or does the acid not attack this???
Thanks
Kelv

Offline Skid

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Your decals will be safe

Offline kelvyn

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Well ive started, not sure which way I will go but I do know someone through my racing who can re-chrome so If if can find some new decals then i'll go this route for the GT


Offline CustardLips

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OA/Citric acid bath... A few pounds and can achieve excellent results.
Full re-chrome... Big bucks and results in empty pockets.

Must have money to burn lad.  :pilky:
"Every year is getting shorter, never seem to find the time"

"WWG1WGA"

Offline kelvyn

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OA/Citric acid bath... A few pounds and can achieve excellent results.
Full re-chrome... Big bucks and results in empty pockets.

Must have money to burn lad.  :pilky:

Sadly not just know the right people  ;)

Offline popedante

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also if your thinking of a rechrome the results can be a bit hit and miss , ive seen as many bad rechromes as ive seen good rechromes , so unless you do a lot of prep work and you are using a reputable chrome platers dont be shocked if the new chrome is poxy  ;D  :daumenhoch:

RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Mid School BMX (>87) 1989 to 2003 (<05)  |  Mid School ( Keep the faith )  |  Purchased Dyno Compe to rob the bits for my GT Performer, but......
 

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