Seat rash removal

[That Swan Guy]

I have a seat that has rashing to the rear and wondered what was the best way to remove it.

Wet & dry?
Polish?

 

[pkripster]

f knows

[Sid1972]

Both, use the wet and dry in one direction only or you start to pull more fibres out. Once smooth polish it .

[That Swan Guy]

f knows

 

[BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN]

f knows

If f knows, then get him to post the answer 




got a pic Nick 

[That Swan Guy]

Both, use the wet and dry in one direction only or you start to pull more fibres out. Once smooth polish it .

Any particular grade?

[Discostu]

Isn't there any threads on this? 

[That Swan Guy]

f knows

If f knows, then get him to post the answer 




got a pic Nick 

[That Swan Guy]

Isn't there any threads on this? 

There is now!

All I keep finding is that bloody spoke calculator

[Sid1972]

I have always used 1000 then 1200 to finish.    it may sound crazy butt use the base of a spoon to rub over were u have wet and dried, it restores the shiny finish.

Well it works for me. 

[rodriguez]

Blowtorch or heat gun to melt the fibres.

[That Swan Guy]

How it came out just using wet/dry

[Howser]

That's come out really well. I've got one to do - can I ask what grade paper you used and was it wet then dry?  Sorry if stupid question but not done this before.   Thanks. 

[That Swan Guy]

That's come out really well. I've got one to do - can I ask what grade paper you used and was it wet then dry?  Sorry if stupid question but not done this before.   Thanks. 

Although the guys earlier in the thread said 1000-1200 I could only find 400!

I used this both wet and dry. Some of the deeper gouges are still there but all the superficial ones have gone.
It's a quality dyed seat so the colour is strong. I sanded in one direction only so as not to rip up other fibres.

Could do with a polish now but so far job's a good 'un.

[MartyC]

Is that a GT seat?

[Jaan]

I had the same problem with finding fine grade wet and dry.

After catching up with Phil Sawzall recently he told me that you can only get the fine grades from trade shops. 

Before finding that out I pinched the missus nail polishing block and it did the trick.

Something like this, essentially its four very fine grades of wet and dry wrapped around a sanding block 

http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-4-Way-Buffer-Block_1114957/

[dancetothedrummersbeat]

I've got a load of 1000 and 2000. A few quid on ebay 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WET-AND-DRY-SANDPAPER-MIXED-GRIT-PACK-OF-10-FREE-p-p-/120617690156?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&var=&hash=item1c155fe42c

[GavinDavis]

Cracking job! Nice one! 

[Bfellows]

I used everything up to 2500 grade wet and dry (£4.00 inc p&p):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121185291231?var=420176724272&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Followed by this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251338573346'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

to spruce up a white elina lightning bolt.  The fine polish can be used for polishing lenses so ideal for bringing back a high shine.  Takes time, but worth it.

[Howser]

That's come out really well. I've got one to do - can I ask what grade paper you used and was it wet then dry?  Sorry if stupid question but not done this before.   Thanks. 

Although the guys earlier in the thread said 1000-1200 I could only find 400!

I used this both wet and dry. Some of the deeper gouges are still there but all the superficial ones have gone.
It's a quality dyed seat so the colour is strong. I sanded in one direction only so as not to rip up other fibres.

Could do with a polish now but so far job's a good 'un.

Thanks for the tips Nick and I'll give it a go 

[Discostu]

You have done a cracking job on that nick.    

[BMX1973]

+1
that looks great. 

You have done a cracking job on that nick.