Polishing silver parts

[kjilaja]

I've got a pair of silver mx1000's and a pair of silver tech3's that need to be polished for my ruffell rep,what's the best way to get them nice and shiny?will peek do it or do I need to send them to someone on here that can do them

[BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN]

Peek will work fine - but it takes time and hard work - you just have to man up


By hand:

on the levers if they are a bit rough on the ends from being dropped -use a very fine sandpaper (wet&dry) some thing like 800 - 1200 and round them off - the same at the edges near the furrels end

then it is just a case of polish polish polish    after a time the lever will become smooth and stats to chrome look up / mirror finish

the same with the calipers - take them all apart and work each piece in stages, as the finish on both arms will be the same

By mop - polishing machine

this can speed up the time but can also be over kill with the looks, as it can over polish ends and smooth them out too much - a good polisher will keep the same shape as it's meant to be - over polished parts will look wrong and not fit in with the overall look

different grades of polish paste can be use to get a good finish on a mop but it can take practice


I find that hand polishing works be for parts that can change shape if over polished - alloy can wear away quick on a mop - some thing like a tange bb can be polished well on a mop


don't forget - with a mop (polishing grinder) items can get very hot quick ~ so use some thick leather gloves to transfer the heat away and not burn you hand - use some thing soft under the machine as the item can flick out of your hands and on concrete will mark if it drops

hand polishing can be messy - use gloves - and clothes to clean up to see what has been done

and take your time on both 

hard work shows, the fakes from the pro's 

cheers B 

[Jamroll]

As Bendy said, if you take your time it will finish up shiney  if you have the time you can do a good job 
This is what my Pro Neck II looking like after i left it in Oven Pride for 4 hours 


and after bout 8 hours polishing the fook out of it 

[GavinDavis]

This was pretty much the kit that I bought for polishing a few bits up....works a treat 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-METAL-POLISHING-KIT-A-Compound-20-felts-Simply-use-with-a-DRILL-/400301323539?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5d33d17513

[kjilaja]

That's the finish I'm after jamroll,what did you use to get it like that?

[double chevron]

Not sure what you're talking about here, do you have chrome plated  DC brakes or silver ones (clear anno'd) or even stripped ones (bare alloy)? You won't be needing the same stuff

I read chrome in your title then silver in the subject. You'll need to strip them first cos polishing anno never blinded anyone so far.

[Jamroll]

That's the finish I'm after jamroll,what did you use to get it like that?

It was Anno, hence the oven pride, then some wet and dry to get all that shite off it, if you rub the over pride through the bag if your parts are anno it will come off straight away and not go like mine did, then get some polishing clay and a drill mop and go to town, if the Anno comes straight off, a light polish will having it looking like mine in a hour or so....
Mine was pitted to fook as the Oven Pride ate the alloy   but plenty of time got me to a shiny finish.

[GavinDavis]

Thats a great finish! I have to admit....it does take a while to polish bits up!

[kjilaja]

My mx1000's and tech3's look like they have been stripped already,so I'm guessing they are bare alloy,will have to ask al wyn who I got them off if they have been stripped.so polishing with the clay and a mop will get these right?don't have any of these items so would I be best buying one of them sets gavindavis was on about on eBay?can I use the mop with my makita?

[GavinDavis]

Yep, thats the kit you need bud 

Brown clay first, then blue to finish. 

I used a polishing head with brown clay with my drill to start with (small amounts at a time or else you will get horrible clay residue), then I used a fresh polishing head in my dremel with the blue clay at around 1500rpm.

I found its best to really work the brown stuff in until you get a near minty finish.....then attack it with the blue 

[HARORIDER]

WARNING!!! If you are using a mop EXTRA CARE is needed when polishing the "dia compe" writing on the levers as the alloy is softer and you can polish the writing away in a heartbeat(trust me i know) i have perfected this now but you have to be very careful !!!   

[BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN]

Hence why I do it by hand  takes longer but shows that you haven't gone to far or heavy handed the item   

[Glynnyboy]

If your polishing up a set of bare dc's your better off following the hand wet n dry then polish method .
The big plus here is you definitely know you won't go too far.
Peek is none abrasive and the best when your trying not to rub away the microns thick chrome plating on a frame.
On alloy though the mildly abrasive elements in autosol tubed cream will work better in your favour when hand polishing the mx callipers.

[BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN]

And never over do a lever, as over polishing can make it loose the shape you know by eye, making it look odd and it just won't look right on the bike. In the end it is about practicing and see what works for you, seeing how the metals react to heat~ cold~ speed of wheels/ mops used~  paste/polish used~ size of item and ease of holding it right~ how long you spend on it~ item cognition in the first place~ all of these factors add up and it's just a case of getting them right for the best result.                Cheers B 

[deeman]

As said before Nick,probably better off doing small items such as these by hand.If the items are bare ally,you won't need any more than wet 'n dry paper and some autosol and a few cloths to get the required finish.Just use the wet 'n dry to get all pitting and imperfections out of the metal and then use a elbow grease and autosol to finish.Remember though that components were rarely finished like this bitd and you can overdo it on the 'bling'.A light buffing which still retains casting marks and metal texture is much more favourable imo