cassette hub to 10mm rear ! how so to do ?

[bobbbbsy]

anyone running a cassette rear wheel on an old skool setup ?
whats the back spacing like and whats the max number of teeth that are available on one of them ninja throwing stars ?
 did i see this on pickles goose ? not sure!
dont mind doing some grinding but how hollow are hollow axles ?

thanks

[bobbbbsy]

probably should have googled 10 rear cassette hub first !! 

so the female hubs have a thread in and a bolt that goes in like on a car wheel ? ahh fook all this new craP !

[HEYWOOD BMX]

  Spacing is 110mm.Most modern cassette hubs have 1 pc drivers with very limited spacing for chainline adjustment..Race specific ones generally have screw on cogs available in 12 to 18 teeth but I wouldn`t recommend putting pegs on 10mm axles.A company called Deluxe BMX make a 10mm female axle cassette hub with 9 or 10T drivers,avoid Shitmano DXR

[Dark Diggler]

Or if you want to spend, profile 9t with 10mm bolts 

[pickle]

Bobby.....mine is a standard 14mm rear wheel.  none of that 10mm malarky here 

[bobbbbsy]

you got an 80 goose dont you pickle or am i dreaming ?

nah no pegs or gay shit like that !! cool cool ! cheers guys. so spacing would nt be a problem we think ? 

[BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN]

booobsy stay off the crack 

[pickle]

you got an 80 goose dont you pickle or am i dreaming ?

nah no pegs or gay shit like that !! cool cool ! cheers guys. so spacing would nt be a problem we think ? 

Nope my Goose is 2009/10 new school 

[Spen69]

Nope, you need a bench grinder and some patience!

I experimented on a cheap 9T 14mm axle wheel I got off here then bought a brand new set off gaybay for change to try and it worked both times. I put them onto my 1985 MRD Badlander and it was titled "MRD Badlander with a twist" in the oldschool freestyle section - the link is below. I also ran it with a 13T Oddy freewheel and a 36T front chainring which actualy suited the oldschool look better, and i've actually put it back to that set-up now as I needed the 9T wheels for something else. All you have to do is lace a flip-flop hub into your rear wheel and you can buy the 13T freewheel most places for less than £20 and screw it onto the smaller 30mm threaded side.

If you go the full 9T route just strip the 14mm axle out and mark it with masking tape then drop the first two parallel cuts on with the bench grinder. Keep checking that you've not taken too much off and the best thing is the axle won't spont when you tighten it up in the frame when you're finished which is an added bonus.

The thread si below with pics. It only takes an hour or so unless you go the re-build the hub route which took me about 2hrs to strip and re-lace my wheels, but i'm not very quick at that and make mistakes still when i'm lacing wheels.

http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php'topic=126240.0

Hope that helps

[Spen69]

Here's some pics of what I did to the axle





And here they are on my oldschool MRD Badlander




Clearance on your chain to the chainstay is the issue - I used an old Shark-fin MTB glue-on frame gaurd


And finally getting used properly

[bobbbbsy]

wicked tings spen !!! 

[TwoBobRob]

You used to be able to buy axles that were lozenged like that but they were a nightmare for stripping threads. If you're going to do that, just grind enough to get the axle nicely into the dropouts with a little extra to allow for the wheelnuts squishing everything together. Obviously, this would be on the inside of the dropout... Use a nice washer ont outside and it'll be as strong as it can be.

[Dark Diggler]

Wise words

[Spen69]

Yep, but the axle is trapped in my hub so I had to grind it on the outside of the drop-out due to the width of my grinding wheel

[TwoBobRob]

Add a couple of washers inside and spread the frame a bit then, just to make sure when you tighten the wheelnuts they're actually doing what they're supposed to...

I have to say, if the bike is a true rider then I'd just grind the dropouts out to 14mm and be done with it. It's a legit mod.

Well, in my eyes anyways.....