Stem removing polished look advice

[Swivel]

Hi. I have 2 redline forklifter stems, both were polished (bought that way), this isn't correct for my factory spec masters so need to get these toned down. What would you recommend to use to get the finish somewhere close to the original finish?

Thanks,

Matt 

[Chromo Buzz]

Have you thought about using scotchbrite(made by 3M)? Start off with the burgandy coloured one(the coarse one), then there's green & grey, cant remember which order they're in. Can be bought in B&Q i think, hope this help's

[brummie]

Think stevep was good at this so maybe search one of his resto s
Matt. Think he did this on a pro neck using a stone or something

[pickle]

leave it out in the garden for a month 

[Spen69]

Matt, I'm sure Dave is right. SteveP did a thread on this but it was a long time ago........

You could always drag it behind your motor next time you take a spin? We used to do that with new site jackets and crash-hats on site

Who will you get to do the work though fella? Surely those fairy liquid hands of yours would be best kept clean

[double chevron]

Forkliters are polished but not shiny if that makes sense.
So if you're restoring one that means skipping the last step of buffing.
If want to go backwards, Rob's advice sounds about right

Step away from too hard stuff or brushed effect. It's perfect on a pro Neck not a Redline.

Best bet would probably be sand it with the finest grade you can find and maybe repolish it lightly, without buffing.

[Swivel]

Forkliters are polished but not shiny if that makes sense.
So if you're restoring one that means skipping the last step of buffing.
If want to go backwards, Rob's advice sounds about right

Step away from too hard stuff or brushed effect. It's perfect on a pro Neck not a Redline.

Best bet would probably be sand it with the finest grade you can find and maybe repolish it lightly, without buffing.

That's what I thought Arnaud, finest grade possible then a light buff up 

[Swivel]

Matt, I'm sure Dave is right. SteveP did a thread on this but it was a long time ago........

You could always drag it behind your motor next time you take a spin? We used to do that with new site jackets and crash-hats on site

Who will you get to do the work though fella? Surely those fairy liquid hands of yours would be best kept clean

Spen your so gay 

[Andy68]

I've used mega fine (cant remember grade) with oil in the past to dull down, worked a treat! 

[Gary72]

Let me know how you get on Matt. I have a scuffed and scratched stem base. I was going to polish the marks out as it's easier and quicker than going through various grades of paper. I was thinking of asking SBD to dip it in his stripping soloution to dull it and then just use autosol.

[Redline]

... if ya want to tone down the high gloss polished look Matt then get the stem head "clear annodised" as this will dull it down. I did it wish some Suntour hubs and they came out perfecto 

[Swivel]

Thanks everyone for their hints/tips. I'll give these a go next week 

[Rodgy1970]

leave it out in the garden for a month 

This will work, the alloy will dull as it oxidises.

[Deano]

I would sand it with 1000 grit paper (DRY) so it actually leaves some fine lines and then metal polish it by hand on a rag.
This should give it a slight shine but not a good reflection which sounds like what your after.
If that doesnt look bright enough and still a little flat use 1000 wet or 2000 dry.

I did a stem to 1000 dry with no metal polish and its finish was like the Tuff neck/Pro neck stem so a light polish after should bring it up a tad.

[SteveG]

I was going to suggest grey Scotchbrite with oil on to take some of the shine off. Suntour stems and DX pedals are shiny but not in the corners. I think they would have been ball burnished or tumbled in ceramic trianangles or similar and then just buffed up a bit with a buffing wheel .
I had access to a wet grit blaster years ago which gave a very fine blasted finish which is similar great for that new casting look.

I have experimented with all of the cleaning products in the cupboard and found something called shiny sinks gave a slightly matt finish. It's a stainless steel cleaner not recommended for alloy but cleaned my kart engine up quite nicely. Jif or Cif will also dull a polished alloy surface slightly.

The Scotchbrite will leave lines so Cif might be better, give it a try on something that doesn't matter first.

[QUADROPHENIA]

Stevep was awesome pity he went mad and had to be shot

[animal]

I have done this a bit . I just use rediculously fine flatting paper like 3200 grit them buff it up on the buffing wheel u normally use after polishing stuff (no polish needed). My MRD Mini Pro in the museum had this done on the seatpost and brake etc.

[jT Racing]

Grey is the rough one, maroon is finer. As long as as it's not anno, I use different grades of wire wool. It's less abrasive than a scotch brite and leaves a tip finish.