gfxgfx
 
logo
 
gfx gfx
gfx
975808 Posts in 138943 Topics by 6370 Members - Latest Member: Robertflamn November 26, 2024, 07:32 AM
*
gfx* Home | Portal | Forum | Merchandise | Help | Login | Register | gfx
gfx
RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  dying tuffs
gfx
gfxgfx
 

Author Topic: dying tuffs  (Read 10264 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
dying tuffs
« on: February 09, 2012, 07:22 PM »
Going to 'work from home' tomorrow so I plan to dye my old faded Orange tuffs.  To those that have done this before, how long do you normally leave them cooking away in the drink? Is there a limit or is it a case of longer in the deeper the colour?

Offline BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN

  • Berm Worm
  • ***********
  • Posts: 7327
  • "Click here for link"
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2012, 07:38 PM »
Orange is a funny colour to dye as it can change colour so easy - with red there are shades that please the eye from light to dark - but with orange it can go from a watery orange juice to a sun burnt orange - you have to be a little bit careful and watch it a bit more turn to what you want

water /wet~  will make it look a couple of shades dark when wet - when dry will look a little lighter

with dylon the orange is slightly different to orange skyways - skyway's colour looks solid - dying with dylon looks as it has a covering (yes i know this is what you are doing by dying it ) but is does look different - but that's just how it goes

if old hard life mags - you will get darker spots of orange in cracks, chips, hairlines and grease spots

rotate and stir often - the colour sinks and will lay on top of the mags - so dye both together and top to bottom and rotate till all side get equal covering

alloy hubs don't need grease if you don't want to cover them - they can be lightly or heavy polished after



so in the first half an hour you won't see much change - over the next two hours it will change but the layer is only very thin - up to 6 hours and all is cocking well - over 8 hours just watch what is happening depending on the colour you are using

so may say it doesn't take that long and use different methods - get all the info from every one and use what you need

need any help just pm mate

cheers B  ;)
The Devil is away on business, I'm having to step in for him - How can I make your day Hell !!!

Offline brummie

  • Team Moderator
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: 208652
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2012, 08:11 PM »
how faded rob, have you tried giving them a rub with wd40

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2012, 08:23 PM »
They are quite faded on the rims and look as dry as old nadge.

I'm using rit dye not dylon if that makes any difference.

Al Wyn

  • Guest
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2012, 08:25 PM »
Didnt someone have some nice bright ones for sale Brum ;)

Offline brummie

  • Team Moderator
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: 208652
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2012, 08:30 PM »
Didnt someone have some nice bright ones for sale Brum ;)

i sold em

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2012, 08:31 PM »
You can see the rim areas are faded in this shot

Al Wyn

  • Guest
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2012, 08:35 PM »
Is it fade or where someones used white pads Pickle?

Offline BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN

  • Berm Worm
  • ***********
  • Posts: 7327
  • "Click here for link"
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2012, 08:37 PM »
I would check the colour is right

dylon have been around for years DYE'S OF LONDON = DYLON  - they had near the same colours as most items used iin the 80's ~ so you get a better match to skyways

RIT use's new colour charts and can be off from the 80's colour match

so check first - but dylon is a better match
The Devil is away on business, I'm having to step in for him - How can I make your day Hell !!!

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2012, 08:43 PM »
Deffo faded not brake rub

Al Wyn

  • Guest
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2012, 11:30 PM »
That a pita Pickle as my mates just spent a day and a half doing some greens that were faded in a couple of areas and you can still see the shade difference afterwards :(

Offline BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN

  • Berm Worm
  • ***********
  • Posts: 7327
  • "Click here for link"
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2012, 11:55 PM »
you need to sand down if it's bad - razor for best results

if it's just brake rub line, then a slight sand will bring it up - the next brake rub will take it back down again in time
The Devil is away on business, I'm having to step in for him - How can I make your day Hell !!!

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2012, 08:06 AM »
so insted of dying them, you suggest just rubbing them down with really fine sand paper and then WD40?  ???

Offline Chromo Buzz

  • Curb Endo
  • **
  • Posts: 419
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #13 on: February 10, 2012, 11:18 AM »
Hi, i reckon the best route would be aqua blasting. A couple of people on here have done it with outstanding results 8) :4_17_5: Though apparently it is quite expensive, look on here for a member who's got few resto thread's on an old green 85 master. His white alloy hubbed tuff's look the bomb :smitten:

I've already wreck a set of faded yellow tuff's by trying to re-dye yellow & they turned out like a mustard colour :tickedoff:
Here's  before  & after pic


So then i tried to dye them orange & they ended up like this :-[ :'(


I got these off Ebay.com & i'm not gonna risk dyeing them, i'm gonna call the guy in Essex for a price on the aqua blasting. Cant risk fooking this pair up :smitten:


Which ever way you choose, hope they turn out sweet for ya ;) :daumenhoch:

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #14 on: February 10, 2012, 12:48 PM »
what orange dye did you use?


Offline Chromo Buzz

  • Curb Endo
  • **
  • Posts: 419
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #15 on: February 10, 2012, 01:53 PM »
It was the rit dye orange, when i used the yellow dye that was dylon. I used a great dying thread from Bendycat, though i fooked up & read it wrong &  used three packs instead of two :uglystupid2: :idiot2:

I cant even dye them red either, as they now have dark speckles on them which i fear red dye wouldnt hide. I think the next step for them is to dye them black.

Hope that helps,

Buz ;)

Al Wyn

  • Guest
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #16 on: February 10, 2012, 01:58 PM »
Thing to remember is that you are only dying the very top surface...after my buddy coocked up his greenies he dyed them black...after a while the braking surface will go green again no doubt

Offline pickle

  • Site Supporter
  • My life is Radbmx
  • *
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #17 on: February 10, 2012, 02:05 PM »
mine will get very very little use (if any)

Offline BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN

  • Berm Worm
  • ***********
  • Posts: 7327
  • "Click here for link"
  • Rated:
Re: dying tuffs
« Reply #18 on: February 10, 2012, 07:45 PM »
Q: HOW MANY TINS OF DYE

short answer is DYLON Multi Purpose  DYE TIN - GOLDEN GLOW - TWO TINS

OR

my old threads



some one asked me how to dye mags in a pm - i saved what i said and hopefully it may help you lot in some way


i used acorn mags for this but most old mags have nylon in them and so will dye well - becarfull some cheaper mags are plastic and i don't know if they will dye as well - guess you can only try  :wink:

 things you need before starting
1. a tub - that is big enough to fit two mags in but is not so big that it take to much water to fill and then it will dilute the dye to much (home base do one that you use to carry garden rubbish made out of flexible plastic)

2. salt - and loads of it - use 2x 750g - this can be bought from the super market of you choice - bags or tubs is ok but no low cal salt

3. dylon - can be bought from wooly's or robert dyas or place's that sell it  :lol: i use three for best results

4. a stick of some sort  :shock: to stir

they can be a bugger to open - careful as you need to get a shape knife and go under the lip - use some thing to catch it in if you spill/ knock it - trust me  :roll:  :lol:

the dylon is the Multi purpose one only - it has MP on the back - the cold water dye will not stick and will wash out or fade as it has no fixer in it - you can buy a fixer but have not tried that way yet so just stick to MP for the moment  :wink:

the water needs to be piping hot - the hotter the better - i tried kettles and boiling pans of water first but it takes time to boil it all up - best way so far I've found is to switch the hot water tank on for an hour and then you should have near scolding water (be very care full here  :shock: )

put some thing under the tub - an old blanket works here as long as it's even, so it won't fall over - this is to keep the heat in and to stop soaking the cold up from the floor

you will need to cover the top of the tub to keep the heat in as keeping it warmer for longer gives the best result - you can use a sheet of plastic with then a load of blankets to keep the heat in - i use a old double  material lilo as this is thick and keeps loads of heat in

put mags in tub then fill to 1 inch above them with boiling water take mags out (use a hook as you will boil hand  :shock: ) and add salt - stir well in till dissolved  - then add colour of you choice x 3 (lighter colours may need just 2) - stir in colour well - now add carefully mags - splashes will stain  :evil: now give a gentle stir around to mix it all up  :wink:

I check the mags every two hours and turn the over and change the bottom one to the top - this is to give an even colour all around - then cover up with what your using - try to cover all gaps and keep steam and heat in  :wink:

I leave it over night and in the morning check it - rich colour and all over a even finish  :wink: - wash off with cold water and careful where it drips as some colour will drip off and stain - then just dry with cloth or paper towel - you can just leave or rub polish over spokes - if you polish the lip/edge you brake may not grip  :wink:

hope this helps - any question or advice that can help just pm or post  :wink:

cheers B  :twisted:

I will post some pic's soon - wanted to get the mags out on the grass but it's raining at the moment





right the pictures are here

black has a faint tinge of red in it in sun light but is good
white is just bleached and has a creamish look - will never be snow white
blue is not bad - was my first time dying so could be brighter - next time
red is bright with a tinge of orange but good
yellow is great - nice and bright and a deep colour

so in my eyes 3 tins works the best for a bright deep solid colour - keep the heat in for as long as you can - stir and turn and rotate the wheels often as it make sure that both wheels get an even colour  :wink:







look what's been growing in the grass  :lol:




the gorden ramsay way of dying wheels [/size]

take 1 set of OGK's - slightly faded


wash


pick out any dirty bits missed


scrape off any brake marks


bleach


hot water


salt


dye


put in and leave for 24 hours - turning and stiring every so often


cover


take out and wash in cold water - then dry


now ready to serve - i mean ride -[size=18] DONE [/size]





cheers B[/size]


cheers B ;)
The Devil is away on business, I'm having to step in for him - How can I make your day Hell !!!

RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  dying tuffs
 

gfxgfx
gfx gfx
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal