Author Topic: NOW IT'S WINDING ME UP A FECKING TREAT ********** (Read 12325 times)

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **on:** February 08, 2012, 12:20 PM »

Right starting to build it back up again after the star washer was replaced

so bottom bearing in right way around
top bearing in and right way around
the the little split ring
then the top washer

so you then have about a 1" of fork tube showing

so cos it's been running a twin cable pull, it's got a gyro - saterlite and a fly tab and cable holder

now if you put the stem on with out the fly cable holder you have about 3 mm and this is where the top hat fits

but if you put the holder on - you have about 1/2"

now put the stem on as well and you have less than 1/2" to put the stem on and lock down - also the top hat washer doesn't do up now

can't reach

this is just DOING MY FOOKING HEAD IN

So how the hel did it run before with brake set up - some one who knew bmx in a shop had to of put it on ?

am i missing some thing and will feel the fool

surely you can't run it on 1/2" hold and feel safe ?

did the shop sell em some thing that didn't work and bodged it

i just wanted to set it up and dial it in, but it's just winding me up

please help

cheers B

pickle · « **Reply #1 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:25 PM »

Might explain why the old nut had broken?

Looks like you have 1 of 2 options.

1. Ditch the gyro and go single cable
2. Ditch your stem and cable hanger and buy a fly stem or s&m stem which have the cable hanger tabs built into the sides

kuwahero · « **Reply #2 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:31 PM »

As pickle says might explain why the star fangled washer broke in the first place

I would suggest getting something like this, if you want to run it the way it is. That way it can't come off when riding

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx'modelID=48381

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:35 PM »

So how the hell has it been running so high when the original guy put it on ?

I am surprised jim didn't go ass over tit and the stem come off when he test rode it

right have a look at the you -tube clip and see that the guy had to cut down the holder - an option ?

so the stem it needs to cover the the fork tube right and i'm not going mad

i take it a single brake cable will work just as well ?

would have liked to keep the gyro just to learn bar spins

feck it

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:37 PM »

Quote from: kuwahero on February 08, 2012, 12:31 PM

As pickle says might explain why the star fangled washer broke in the first place

I would suggest getting something like this, if you want to run it the way it is. That way it can't come off when riding

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx'modelID=48381

still don't feel safe with only 1/2" hold of the stem to fork tube

gyro plate needs to be shorter to fit and be sake to hold on

is there any thing the i don't have to change my stem or loose the gyro ?

pickle · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:41 PM »

You definatley have the bottom bearings in right? can't see in any of your pictures but i'm guessing you do.

If so then there's something very wrong with that set up if that's how someone rode it!

Like i said, if you lose the gyro and go single cable then your stem is just right.

If you want to run the gyro then i think you need a new stem with tabs on it

Discostu · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:43 PM »

I would try one of the steel 1"1/8th top gyro plates and a small headset spacer washer first. As that alloy top plate is quite thick. I would have thought I've got a plate some where. I would imagine the bike didn't originally have a gyro and that is why the forks are so short. To stop flexing. Or as others have said fit a stem with gyro tabs already attached. You should be able to find a good one on here or eBay for a few quid.

dordymush · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:44 PM »

i'd lose the gyro.
how many times are you gonna spin ya bars that much.

SaMAlex · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:46 PM »

Please dont run the bike with the stem half on. Not good at all. Its perfect in that pic without the gyro plate. Gyros are over rated anyway!

I'd guess that someone has cut down the fork steer tube. They often need cutting down if you like a low stem. If the old forks do have a shortened steer tube, the Best solution is to get new forks. If your forks have been cut down too much, thats what needs fixing

jimwise68 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:47 PM »

I should have boxed it up with stem still intact

All seemed ok when it was at mine.

Have u checked pix for how it was stacked?

SaMAlex · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:49 PM »

That gyro plate does look very thick. It almost looks like it has 2 extra spacers stuck to the bottom of it

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:52 PM »

Jim if you hadn't of taken it apart - i would be riding it like that and think it's safe - don't want to think what would have happened - so big thanks AGAIN mate

right i have a idea and just waiting for photobuck to stop C***ing me about

so i can show you lot and see what you think

pickle · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:53 PM »

I was about to suggest new forks as well but Alex got there first.

I think you could get other gyro plates that are half the thickness of that one and it would be fine

Discostu · « **Reply #13 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:56 PM »

I have also noticed something else. The gyro plate is machined out to fit under the stem but it doesn't look the same profile as the stem shape. Lifting it up a few more mm. You could have the top plate machined to match your stem on top and have 5mm or so taken off the bottom to give you more room. Actually I have a flat alloy plate that is around 5mm thick that my mate made up for me if the stem will accommodate a 5mm plate. Just take your plate off and fit the stem and leave a 5mm gap. Then you can see if you have enough fork room. I will send it to you if it will work. Just buy me a beer next time you see me.

SaMAlex · « **Reply #14 on:** February 08, 2012, 12:59 PM »

Quote from: discostu on February 08, 2012, 12:56 PM

The gyro plate is machined out to fit under the stem but it doesn't look the same profile as the stem shape.

Oooh!!!!

Is the gyro plate on the right way? The machined part is wedge shaped, same as the stem. It looks like it might be on backwards

The edge of the stem and the gyro plate both have signs of wear, as tho they did fit snug before

Discostu · « **Reply #15 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:02 PM »

I noticed that as well alex. It could be the wrong profile for the stem. However that will only let it down a mm or so. So that isn't going to make a massive amount of difference.

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #16 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:04 PM »

well that is the thing i was thinking about the plate

right so the gyro plate is 19mm tall and this i think is where it pushes up the stem and then the stem can't lock on to enough tube

tube hasn't been cut down as for as i can see - top is factory finish

so have a look at the pic's and let me know and see if you think it will work

plate is 19mm tall and if i cut the extra bottom off of it to 8mm taking off 10-11mm

on doing this the stem will not lock onto the tube and look safe and the top hat bolt will screw on

will this leave enough room for cables to screw in the top of the plate - enough movement for it to work on pulling the brake - i'm assuming that it can be dialed in so that you can pull the brake lever and have movement in the gyro and then enough squeeze in the calipers (will be the next issue of getting to work )

let me know what you think

pickle · « **Reply #17 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:09 PM »

still looks higher than i would be happy with $:-\$

SaMAlex · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:10 PM »

WOW! Thats a thick gyro plate! Most of them dont have those "spacers" built in!

Maybe get thinner gyro plate?

Or can you get rid of the dust cover top cap on the headset, even if its just till you get a thinner gyro plate?

pickle · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:11 PM »

i'd say ditch the gyro for now and ride it, then long term buy some new forks and set the gyro up

fugazi · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:12 PM »

As the others have said, double check the headset's in correctly, get a thinner gyro plate, a fly bikes low rise top cap will also give You more room but You may find You run into the problem of the gyro hits the plate before the blocks hit the rim when You pull the lever. I would think originally the bike came with a normal cable & the steerer just isn't long enough to run a gyro set up.

SaMAlex · « **Reply #21 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:13 PM »

A "normal" gyro plate:

http://www.liferbmx.co.uk/store/vocal-alloy-gyro-plate-black-p-5358.html

Discostu · « **Reply #22 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:14 PM »

Bendy here is a pic of the alloy plate I can send you. It's actually 4mm thick. Let me know as I'm going to the post office in a bit. Yours for the price of a beer when I next see ya!

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #23 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:16 PM »

how thin does the gyro plate need to be / or is standard ? - that's about 8mm i can get it down to

Rob - you can see the old grease line in side the fork tube to where it would sit with out a gyro/plate - is it really that bad

as that is where the new refit would sit now ?

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #24 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:20 PM »

sorry for delay in answering all - photobucket is slow

just a picture of the top of the plate (yes i know it's backward - it was just a quick shot)

stu - that could do the trick - let me just see what it looks like that i could get my plate down to - many thanks mate - yes a pint would be yours

still trying to find out if i can make it to the summer run

Author Topic: NOW IT'S WINDING ME UP A FECKING TREAT ********** (Read 12325 times)

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