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RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  Understanding MX brakes
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Author Topic: Understanding MX brakes  (Read 3716 times)

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dubdee

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Understanding MX brakes
« on: October 30, 2011, 07:35 AM »
As i originally got into BMX after the craze in 90's i don't get the whole mx brake thing so is there info out there as to whats good whats not etc etc. My bike was 90's gt and the mx brakes were obviously fakes from what i have worked out (i stuck tuff2's and mx brakes on it as they were cheap)   ::)

Cheers

Danny

xGoose

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2011, 07:51 AM »
I only know about 1000s and 900s so if its those you want to be sure about the real ones are stamped like 'MADE IN JAPAN', and will have a date stamp like '5583'. Theyre also stamped 'MX1000' or 'MX900'.

Anything stamped 1000A is generally a cheap Taiwan copy and you can usually tell by the quality and they almost never have quick releases.

Be careful nowadays as they've been reproduced by dc. You can tell the difference pretty easily though as the adjusters are different and face upwards and the stamp is 1000A.

The tech 3 levers are a bit harder to distinguish though but Ive heard its down the degree of the bend at the end of the lever. Real tech 3's are stamped though 'MADE IN JAPAN', and will have a date stamp like '5583' on the clasp.

Hope that helps  :daumenhoch:



Offline Gnarlyscoots

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2011, 07:53 AM »
In my opinion dude, MX brakes are sh*te. They are just desirable objects from the late '70's era to the early '80's. A lot of it is down to what most guys remember back in the day what was on their bikes and what is era correct for their pony/carpet queen builds.

The MX 1000's and 900's are the most desirable even though they are not very good at working even with the caliper centrilisers.

If it's DC brakes in general, the best brakes that I have found are the AD990, if you have frame mounts or the DC750 that mounts like a normal caliper but works like a 990. Never tried a Pitbull caliper so cannot comment on those but for me, most centre pull calipers seem to be the best for use. There were a number of changes during the '80's with a vast number of varities. Obviously, as time went on, the calipers got better.

In short, if your using your ride and have 990 mounts, thats the best in my opinion. Without mounts, try the DC880's  :daumenhoch:

Hope that helps a little dude  :coolsmiley:
« Last Edit: October 30, 2011, 07:55 AM by Londonhellboy »
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dubdee

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2011, 08:18 AM »
Cheers

I have a rider which is currently a super burner but i am wanting to change the frame and forks to maybe something freestyle and build something that actually stops, So far i have a set off tuff'2s next on the list is brakes and a frame but wanted to keep it roughly same decade nothing too posh though  :)

Coaster

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2011, 08:49 AM »
I think pads make as much difference as anything else dood................

Offline Gnarlyscoots

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2011, 08:52 AM »
Stopping properly is not really an option with tuffs dude as they didnt bitd even with tuff pads  :-\ We always used our feet for real stopping power  :LolLolLolLol:

What sort of freestyle frameset you after?
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Rodgy1970

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2011, 09:05 AM »
Yeah as LHB says MX brakes calipers are crap on a rider.

Haven't tried the 990 type yet, run a 90's pitull and ACS 860 combination it works OK on a rider.

If you upgrade the calipers also upgrade the levers as tech 3 aren't much use either.

Offline hunterdubber

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2011, 09:07 AM »
Don't go near any early 80's brake if you want to actually stop and not " just slow down a bit "  :crazy2:


If it's a 90's caliper mount build a Pitbull is the best choice  8)

if it's a 90's lugged build the worlds your oyster AD900/990  8) 8) 8)

With any Tech 5 ,Tech 77 style lever ,you're on to winner

Serious stopping power  :4_17_5: (set up right of course  :angel: )
« Last Edit: October 30, 2011, 09:11 AM by Hunterdubber »

dubdee

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2011, 09:14 AM »
Not really sure it's a tad confusing because i started riding in the 90's. I'm trying to build something i can ride about on my first decent bike was a GT Dyno VFR i fitted tuffs but i always wanted a skyway haro etc. Frame wise something not mega rare / expensive and something that's not going to look too out of place with the bits i would need to fit to get it rolling, tuff 2's sr stem etc Would love a skyway frame but the parts i have would not do it justice  ;D

I remember a couple of years ago that they were a few NOS freestlye frames floating around the bay for £50 should have bought one  :tickedoff: at the moment the main things are something i can use that looks oldschool.

Cheers for the replies people i remember a mate having pitbull brakes and i was pretty jealous of them maybe i need to go midschool route

Sorry for the essay  :-\

griff

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2011, 09:34 AM »
get some squeaky clear pads from the radbmx shop - I'm running some with tuffs and they work a treat (levers are tech 77 and calipers are bulldogs but they only started working once I switched the pads)
I can now do skids  8) and would be able to do endoes too if I wasn't crap

dubdee

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2011, 10:38 AM »
Will take a look

get some squeaky clear pads from the radbmx shop - I'm running some with tuffs and they work a treat (levers are tech 77 and calipers are bulldogs but they only started working once I switched the pads)
I can now do skids  8) and would be able to do endoes too if I wasn't crap

 :2funny:

ukoldschool

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2011, 05:18 PM »
I certainly remember getting tuffs and DC brakes to work BITD...........

griff

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2011, 05:29 PM »
I certainly remember getting tuffs and DC brakes to work BITD...........

but you were probably about 8 stone wringing wet  ;D

Offline Betty

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2011, 06:48 PM »
Linear cables will make a big difference...  :daumenhoch:

They are shit brakes though, look nice but slowing down a bit is about as good as it gets...  ;D

« Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 06:51 PM by Betty »
2 minutes turkish...

Offline 58 delray

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #14 on: October 31, 2011, 08:39 PM »
it never ceases to amaze me the amount of threads there are about how sh1t brakes were bitd, i never had any problems with them then and i don't now  :)

granted modern brakes are better and easier to set up but my MX1000 on my loopy works fine as does my 901 on my XL and with that i mean they stop and not just slow down gradually, its all down to the pads you use and how they are set up  :daumenhoch:

super mat

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #15 on: October 31, 2011, 08:48 PM »
this always seems to be a bone of contention.it all boils down to set up,pad choice and caliper.but even then,my tuff burner survivor has weinman 1020s,original tuff pads and stops my 12 and a bit stone very well.skids and endo,s no problem.pads tend to perform better once they have some wear on them,so they match the profile of the rim better.

Offline Spen69

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #16 on: October 31, 2011, 11:28 PM »
Yep, I agree with Andy and it's just how you set them up right. Running DC880 calipers and rockwalks, endos and backhops are no issues. I know they'll be even better with a set of those sticky pads but they squeal like fook :2funny:
Still limping......

Offline MartyC

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Re: Understanding MX brakes
« Reply #17 on: November 01, 2011, 02:35 AM »
it never ceases to amaze me the amount of threads there are about how sh1t brakes were bitd, i never had any problems with them then and i don't now  :)

granted modern brakes are better and easier to set up but my MX1000 on my loopy works fine as does my 901 on my XL and with that i mean they stop and not just slow down gradually, its all down to the pads you use and how they are set up  :daumenhoch:

Amen to that  :daumenhoch:


Better to crash and burn than fade away

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