Author Topic: A bit of help / advice needed please (Read 2747 times)

Jamroll · « **on:** July 22, 2011, 10:40 PM »

So been tightening up all the bits on the CW tonight for its maiden voyage tomorrow in the sun and have come across a bit of an issue

I have a set of twin pinch redlines fitted to her at the moment and here lays the issue, on the driveside i have the bottom bracket then the top hat washer that fits nice and snug to a tuff neck power disc which has a tuff neck chain wheel fitted to it.

It just seems to be to far out, and because of this the chain is MEGA close to the frame down by the freewheel, now i've turned the crank a couple of times and the allignment is well off the chain is catching the teeth on the free wheel and just cant be ridden the way it is.

I've tried moving the rear wheel as far forward into the rear dropouts as far as they can but not helping the situation.
Apart from mounting the Chainwheel on the back of the powerdisc (I think this was done on the dp prototype) is there any other way i can sort this???
Doing my haed on this.
Thanks in advance

Al

rollin72 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:48 PM »

im sure the top hat washer needs to go on the other side of the disk

Gnarlyscoots · « **Reply #2 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:51 PM »

The chainring needs to go the other side of the power disc bro

rollin72 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:56 PM »

the chainring's on the right side, im sure its the tophat washer $:-\$

griff · « **Reply #4 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:58 PM »

on my haro had a slight alignment problem but swapped the spacers around as one was bigger than the other (before it sounded like it was in the middle of 'changing gear' if you know what I mean)

got my tophat washer on same way as you

btw your bike looks fookin ace Al

Gnarlyscoots · « **Reply #5 on:** July 22, 2011, 10:58 PM »

I know what it is bro, you have put the cone bearing cover on the drive side yer ??

The cone bearing cover goes on the other side and the flat bearing cover goes on the drive side. It has a recess for the top hat to go into

Gnarlyscoots · « **Reply #6 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:02 PM »

Drive side

near side

kuwahero · « **Reply #7 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:03 PM »

remove the black spacer from behind the top hat washer. it will then sit closer to the bb and the top hat will sit flat on the bearing. if it isn't spaced enough for the power disc to miss the bb then use the thin shims to space just enough for it to run free.

you can then make up the space on the non drive side with the thin spacers

Jamroll · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:09 PM »

Thanks all

Quote from: Londonhellboy on July 22, 2011, 10:58 PM

I know what it is bro, you have put the cone bearing cover on the drive side yer ??

The cone bearing cover goes on the other side and the flat bearing cover goes on the drive side. It has a recess for the top hat to go into

I'll go and check it out now

, how easy is it to get the black spacers off? Daft question i know but i'm fookin paranoid about damagin the paint

Jamroll · « **Reply #9 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:30 PM »

Nope Cone is on non drive side.
Kuwahero, if i remove the black spacer i'll have the opposite problem with clearance of the crank arm against the frame, I've just measured the gap at the moment and the top of the crankare has about 9mm gap. if i remove will it leave me with enough?

Jamroll · « **Reply #10 on:** July 22, 2011, 11:47 PM »

Quote from: rollin72 on July 22, 2011, 10:56 PM

the chainring's on the right side, im sure its the tophat washer $:-\$

Rollin,
the only way this is gonna work is if i fit the tophat washer to the outside of the powerdisc, as you said

if i tighten though is gonna flex / stress any differently??? never seen one with a top hat washer on the outside before

hunterdubber · « **Reply #11 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:02 AM »

Well everyone has alrady stated the initial remedies and yes in a case before I had to fit the tophat the way Rollin states on a certain build ,, but make sure it doesn't make your chainwheel run out of true .

The next thing I'd suggest , if possible is to slide a couple of the wheel nut washers on the axle to the inside of the dropout to open the rear give a little clearance from the freewheel and stays

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #12 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:04 AM »

have you tried putting a washer on the rear drop out - there might be enough room to put a washer in next to the freewheel - this will make room between the freewheel and drop out - thus no chain scrape on rear drop out ?

worth a try

by the way mate FCUKING LUSH BIKE - you gotta show my it at yer work place

top work spamroll mate

cheers B

copied what i was saying and just about to post - but also watching bladerunner

brummie · « **Reply #13 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:04 AM »

thats just what i was gonna suggest chris

oldtired · « **Reply #14 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:05 AM »

cut or file off the large (flange

) bit of the top hat this will leave you with a spacer that fills the size diference between the opc disc and the spindle , the large bit on the top hat serves no purpose other than creating the problem you have

kuwahero · « **Reply #15 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:08 AM »

I didn't use either of the cone spacers on mine. I just used the different sized thin spacers to space them correctly.

My crank arms miss the frame by around 5-6mm. just play about with the spacer and try keeping as close as you can to bb

p.s. if you put the top hat on the outside there will be a gap between the powedisc and the crank arm mount. when you then tighten the sprocket bolt it will deform the power disc.

john4130 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 23, 2011, 07:41 AM »

Quote from: kuwahero on July 23, 2011, 12:08 AM

I didn't use either of the cone spacers on mine. I just used the different sized thin spacers to space them correctly.

My crank arms miss the frame by around 5-6mm. just play about with the spacer and try keeping as close as you can to bb

p.s. if you put the top hat on the outside there will be a gap between the powedisc and the crank arm mount. when you then tighten the sprocket bolt it will deform the power disc.

do what kuwahero says and remove the black spacer and use thin shims if needed. then add washers to the back axle whichever side needs them to get correct chain alignment. dont put the tophat on the other side of the chainwheel as it will bend ure chainwheel when you tighten it down.

pickle · « **Reply #17 on:** July 23, 2011, 09:20 AM »

maybe you'll have to ditch the power disc and go for a normal spider, that way you can mount the chainring on the back side of it and it will line up better

Jamroll · « **Reply #18 on:** July 23, 2011, 09:58 AM »

Sorry for not getting back sooner, tried all this last night was tired and finished up chipping my paint

had a smoke calmed down after swearing loudly for 10 mins and went to bed feelin sorry for myself

Anyway, Had a look again this morning before work and I think Kuwahero's suggestion is the right one, I tried putting the tophat washer on the out side and as a lot of you have said all it did was "twist" the powerdisc and chainwheel. So have removed the cap on the driveside and all seems to look ok, so will have another crack when the baby goes night night tonight and the mrs goes out.
Thanks for all the suggestions lads...really is appreciated

Oh Bendy, let me know when you wanna come over and I'll bring it in

Al

BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN · « **Reply #19 on:** July 23, 2011, 10:03 AM »

will nail varnis hide the chip ? will let you know mate when i will pop over

GTnumber1 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 23, 2011, 11:12 AM »

the bearing cup needs to go back a bit too its not sitting flush at the top........... suprised no one noticed that

ozone · « **Reply #21 on:** July 23, 2011, 12:08 PM »

Kuwahero's solution seems like the best bet. As others have said, using a chainwheel that doesn't require a top hat washer would also help.

Also, I've noticed that the split link is much thicker than a standard link - if you have a chain splitter you should be able to do away with that link which would help clearance at the back.

Hope you can sort the chip out.

moley · « **Reply #22 on:** July 23, 2011, 01:05 PM »

As other have already said!!

But heres my 2 penneth worth and a recap of other ideas.

1. You dont need a cone spacer next to the top hat washer. If the top hat washer is thick enough and the powerdisk has enough clearance then just use the top hat washer...........and if not then just use a thin washer (or a couple) to space it out more. This will give more clearance but not as much as the super thick cone washer (as per kuwahero)

2. Make sure your tire is central to the frame. If you dont have enough clearance on the hub on the right then add a washer from the other side. To realign your wheel (if its now not central and for a rider only NOT for show) then just true your wheel with the offset (pull the rim to the right). This will get your wheel back aligned centrally. MTB and racers are all done this way due to the amount of gears on the right side therefore the spokes are offset to get the wheel central.

3. If your wheel easily fits into rear axle with a load of slack then the slack should be taken up with spacers anyway NOT tightened up to squish the rear axle.

PS. I dont think the chainring should be on the other side of the powerdisk.

Jamroll · « **Reply #23 on:** July 23, 2011, 09:57 PM »

All Sorted

Thanks to all for the suggestions, i removed the cap from the drive side suck a spacer in and all is good again

Left the cone on the non drive side but removed one of the spacers, spacing between the chain stays and the tips of the crankarms is about 4mm and the chain itself clears the chainstay but about 3mm but it works.
Its a real shit about the paint, not the biggest of chips just above the bottom bracket on the top tube but i know its there, so off to boots i went with the original seat post that i used to choose the candy finish matching it up to nai varnish colours, security guard stopped me as i think he thought i was gonna set about someone with it

Anyway found a varnish VERY close to the original so i'm happy

Author Topic: A bit of help / advice needed please (Read 2747 times)

griff

ozone

moley