Decal Removal and Application Guide

[monkian]

Started to put some decals on and thought I'd take a few pics and contribute a little something.
I'd already applied the main down-tube decal but you get the general idea.

1. Decal Removal

Unfortunately I didn't get any action pics but this seemed to work quite well. Ok, here's what you'll need:
Hair-dryer (some of you lads won't have seen one of these for a while so ask a lady friend / boy friend / lady-boy friend)
Removal tool like the 'Lil' Chizler' in the second pic below (google search will sort you out with one).
Sellotape & a piece of clear plastic (I used one of those ring-binder sleeves).
Cleaning solvent & rags etc.

A. Clean off any crap sitting on the decals. Measure up and make a few notes on where they sit on the frame.
B. Tape over any damaged areas to the decal using clear sellotape (other brands are available).
C. Apply heat (girlfriends hair-dryer on max) working up and down the edge you want to start with, being careful not to melt anything.
D. Use a 'Lil' Chizler' type tool (or credit card if you want to struggle) and ease the decal up along the heated edge.
E. Work slowly and carefully across the decal repeating steps B & C until removed.
F. Tape down the decal flat to your clear plastic to pass on for scanning / reproduction.
G. Remove the left over glue on your frame. Job done.



2. Decal Application

Tools needed: The notes you made when removing the old decals.
Frame cleaning gear - Soft Wax-On / Wax-Off cloths etc
Paper towel (kindly donated by your local eco-friendly petrol station).
Squirty bottle with water and a little squeeze of Johnsons Baby Shampoo (Good for baby - Good for BMX decals)
Masking tape, Ruler & Soft Vinyl Application Squeegee (again google search will find you one of these - or just use a credit card)
Oh yeah and your new decals and a pair of scissors to cut them out maybe




A. WASH YOUR HANDS (TWICE) - DIRTY BOY!!
B. Make sure the frame is clean & polished in the right places. Remove all traces of polish / solvent etc.
C. Refer to your notes and make a reference point on the frame with some masking tape.
D. Give the area you're applying to a good squirt on a fine mist with the squirty bottle solution.
Remember - It's better when it's wetter

E. Now comes the nervy bit - First up squirt all over your fingers (it's Ok, it's perfectly natural),
carefully peel back a corner of the decal and give that a little squirt as well.
F. Completely remove the decal from it's backing paper in one smooth movement and if you've got it - squirt it.
KEEP THE BACKING PAPER CLEAN & SOMEWHERE HANDY YOU'LL BE NEEDING IT IN A BIT.

G. Slap it on the wet bit of frame in roughly the right place, move it around & line it up until your happy.
They'll be plenty of time before it goes off so there's no rush getting this done.
H. Once the decal is in the right place, get your squeegee or credit card and wrap it up in a few sheets of paper towel.
I. Stick your thumb on it or hold down one end of the decal and slowly ease the solution out from under it - Working from the middle out.
Just do half at a time. The decal will move around quite easily so gently does it.
Keep going until the solution is pretty much mopped up and it seems to be holding in place.
For the smaller decals you can just use the paper towel around your finger for this bit and you won't need much soloution.

J. Ok, two sides to the backing paper one is smooth the other feels like normal paper (pics 10/11 below). Put it paper-side down against the decal -
this will soak up any water and allow you to use the squeegee without the paper towel a lot firmer than before and protect the decal.
The smooth side allows the squeegee to slide along nicely. Same technique as before - hold one end, work out from the middle then change ends.
Don't go too hard too soon (where have I heard that before?). Do it a few times adding a bit pressure each time. You'll hear the water popping its way out.
K. Let it go off for a couple of minutes (not for too long mind) then repeat the above (J).
It's still possible for the decal to move at this stage so don't go too mad with it.
L. Stand back and realize it's pissed (pic 13 below) - kick the cat, cup of tea, repeat from step A.
Job done















I'm sure all of this has been said somewhere before but if it helps at least one person I'll be happy
Hope it all makes sense. Any confusion or errors please let me know and I'll try to put it right
Finally a massive thanks to Del for getting the decals done for me so quickly. They look awesome.
 

[Betty]

Great post, never tried this method, just slap em on dry then realise they're either pissed or in the wrong place... 

[Clean]

Great post, never tried this method, just slap em on dry then realise they're either pissed or in the wrong place... 

What he said. 

I did my first build wet stylee and it worked a treat, but the photos really help. 

Good work, fella! 

[In2 bmx]

Great post .

 I make signs for a living and that gold Gerber spatch is well cool .  .

Just wish I'd have marked where the decals go that I've just struggled to get off my proclass 

[Badbaldie]

great little thread  like most have said in the past ive just applied the decals dried and struggled to get them right . will use this method next time

[1mancity2]

Fantastico Monkian, make this a sticky please  I always cock up me decals

[waza04]

nice thread mate.... i think small decals are quite easy to apply dry! i think i'll use this way on my ripper down tube decal, as there almost wrap around and a nob to do dry! 

[monkian]

Thanks for the comments lads. I'm glad it's of some use and all seems to make sense
You're right, the small decals don't really need too much fuss but I would say, applied wet with wet fingers will help avoid getting fingerprints on the glue side.
The down-tube decal can be the scary one

[abz2002]

Dude

Just what I needed to know for my first build, so you haven't wasted your time at all