Author Topic: and I said I'd only do the one bike.....here's to no. 3 (MT SuperFox this time) (Read 3260 times)

griff · « **on:** March 22, 2011, 10:03 PM »

so tonight I was VERY kindly given a present from hutchman's shed, which I plan to build up into something a bit more usable on our local track than the mongoose I threw together last time (not hard as that weighs a ton!). he had mentioned before that it was an MT something-or-other and since my only bike BITD was a 1982 silverfox, I've been buzzing wondering whether it would be that BITD build as well as an old school racer (2 birds with one stone

)
as it came out into the light I saw the forks first - immediately the old memories started coming back and when the frame came out I was overjoyed to see that while it wasn't a silverfox, it was (I think) the next model up from my old bike, a superfox

. I'm sure Nathan or one of the MT experts on here can confirm but to me it looks just the same design, but may be cromo where my old bike just had cromo forks. I took the 'silverfox' logo off my old bike anyway so no need to worry about the different name

As for parts, not bothered about replicating my old bike exactly but might go for some of the original spec bits if I come across any - important thing of course is I'm doing it on the cheap

anyone has any original spec lists please let me know

It definitely needs 'a bit' of work, but I'm going to read some resto threads again and see if I can get it looking a bit shinier

OK then here are the 'before' pics.....

slight issue with the thread at top of forks - might need some advice on these!

could grow spuds in there

this one's for Nath

A69237 mean anything to you?

thanks again Dave

HUTCHMAN · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2011, 10:07 PM »

no probs...thanks for the favour of the paypal payment.

griff · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2011, 12:45 AM »

been doing some digging around and it seems the frame is made out of something called 'manganese'
no idea what this is but to me it sounds very exotic

been reading bendycat's goose-cooking thread again, but has anyone got any tips for getting rust from inside gussets/tubes etc?
will it need to be immersed in something? don't want it to be eaten away from the inside...

rick1970 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2011, 12:46 AM »

ooooh nice project griff well done ,looks like a case for the three special steps

if you know that dam kids programme

No 1, active gel oven cleaner.

No 2,peek metal polish.

No 3,goddards silver polish cloths.

JOO · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2011, 11:41 PM »

Fill a tub with vinegar and pop it in

griff · « **Reply #5 on:** March 26, 2011, 11:43 PM »

Quote from: JOO on March 26, 2011, 11:41 PM

Fill a tub with vinegar and pop it in

fookinell that's a lot of sarsons

JOO · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:06 AM »

http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=292792
check this out

griff · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:17 AM »

Quote from: JOO on March 27, 2011, 12:06 AM

http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=292792
check this out

that's a pretty good thread

haven't got anything I could use as a vinegar tub but has given me some ideas - cheers Joo

griff · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:54 AM »

after several treatments of hammerite rust removing gel finally started to get some of the brown cack off today
probably should have tried the vinegar bath tbh, most of the stuff that came off was due to elbow grease + wire brush I reckon, wouldn't recommend the hammerite stuff

managed to get the old scratched decals off, just need to get through the scabby bits behind the seat post and the BB before I get busy with the blades and Peek

also got some v-bars coming

will put up pics once there's something new to look at...

oldtired · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:32 AM »

Oxalic Acid is imo the best stuff for rusty bits eats only the rust and leaves the steel and chrome underneath untouched ,get it of the net its also known as deck cleaner ,buy it in crystal form not already made up

you can make a nice strong solution then .

http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/prod/oxalic_acid.html

Rodgy1970 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2011, 10:54 AM »

Quote from: oldtired on March 28, 2011, 10:32 AM

Oxalic Acid is imo the best stuff for rusty bits eats only the rust and leaves the steel and chrome underneath untouched ,get it of the net its also known as deck cleaner ,buy it in crystal form not already made up you can make a nice strong solution then .

http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/prod/oxalic_acid.html

I agree OA - dead easy to use, degrease the parts and wack them in the bath with some of this over night.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1kg-Oxalic-Acid-Hull-Deck-GRP-Cleaner-Rust-Remover-/280465477367?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item414d0b8ef7

pickle · « **Reply #11 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:37 PM »

i guess you have to have something to put those damn UL snakepost things in

cool little project by the way

oldtired · « **Reply #12 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:39 PM »

is'nt the UL container also known as a skip?

griff · « **Reply #13 on:** March 28, 2011, 12:56 PM »

weird - just did a reply and it disappeared

will try again - the elina is staying put on my haro

on this bike am going for something like what I had last time depending on cost
(had a gt layback but can always use a diff brand as they seem to be quite dear now)

won't be repeating the old upgrades I had
z-rims - too dear (and wobbly)
sharp grips, suntour clamp/headlock - too dear as well, but might look at getting copies
after looking at original builds of silverfox it appears that they had tuf-nck copy seat clamps on, which matched what I've got on my haro - trouble is I like it where it is

and as for putting a rusty frame in the bath - think mrs would have a meltdown if she copped me doing that

might have to try the 'headset maintenance on top of the new quilt' method pioneered elsewhere on RAD too

cheers

griff

griff · « **Reply #14 on:** March 30, 2011, 10:00 PM »

it's occurred to me that I have 2 possible rims for this bike - the ones that were originally on my Â£27 mongoose but gave me loads of grief in the hub department
never got round to binning them but are they worth cleaning up/stripping/rehubbing and would the OS police give me a hard time?

not too fussed about the

tbh, but don't want to invest time and money in em if they're shit

one is pictured here

the other one was I think original to the mongoose, might be an alex rim as well

what do you reckon peeps? worth saving or just take them to the tip?

1mancity2 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 30, 2011, 10:06 PM »

Your bike bud put on it what you want but I would strip the dacals off them rims and polish them up, why bin them if they can be saved

griff · « **Reply #16 on:** March 30, 2011, 10:14 PM »

like I said not worried about the OS police, more concerned with the time/effort to clean em up, find hubs/right length spokes and possibly waste the time of the kind chap who offered to lace em up for me if they're crap rims to start with.. anyone know how would these compare with arayas in the strength department (are arayas just expensive cos they're era correct or are they genuinely much better quality?)

BITD I only ever had z-rims, not going down that road again though due to 1) cost and 2) not wanting to flex all over the place

HUTCHMAN · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2011, 08:08 PM »

Griff,found the copy MX1000'S for you!

Munnyella · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2011, 08:18 PM »

I'd use the mongoose rims if 36h, if 48's save them for your next project (it'll come)

I got some generic 36 holers on ebay last month for £7 + P&P, stripped, powdered and reasembled after polishing the spokes, look ok.

if you have no rush, there are bargains to be had.

griff · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2011, 08:40 PM »

Quote from: munnyella on March 31, 2011, 08:18 PM

I'd use the mongoose rims if 36h, if 48's save them for your next project (it'll come)

I got some generic 36 holers on ebay last month for £7 + P&P, stripped, powdered and reasembled after polishing the spokes, look ok.

if you have no rush, there are bargains to be had.

they're 48s Mark, worried that if I keep them I'll end up using em

£7 is defo. my kind of budget

not in a rush so keeping em peeled - just need to get the thing built in time for Hutchman to kick my arse on our local track

most of the prices I've seen for spokes + sealed hubs keep making NS tuffs look like very good value

Quote from: HUTCHMAN on March 31, 2011, 08:08 PM