Author Topic: Resto Araya rims guide, Stage 1/2/3 & 4 completed 'updated 9/12' BLING! (Read 13774 times)

sid1972 · « **on:** December 02, 2010, 07:15 PM »

Hi folks,
the last thing I want to do is show you radsters how to suck eggs

, but I thought someone may find this thread of use, because we all start somewhere

Over the next couple of weeks - I will be restoring, mirror polishing and lacing these rims, and I will update the thread at each stage with images of how I am getting on.

Current state:

Stage 1:
Removing stone chips/dings and marks, tools needed and the methods I use.

Tools I start with.

Locate all the marks that are on the rim.

This is the important bit , localise your repairs because the more marks you make the more you have to remove. Spend a bit of time choosing the right file (start with the smoothest to prevent over kill), apply light pressure all in the same direction.

This is how it should look finished. Work round each rim a couple of times to because you will miss some.

Next stage removing the anno with caustic soda..

bigfatolly · « **Reply #1 on:** December 02, 2010, 08:20 PM »

Cool thread,looking forward to this

sharp767 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 02, 2010, 08:27 PM »

yep...me too..excellent.

Hootski70 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 02, 2010, 08:58 PM »

Can't wait to see these progress as i nearly told Spen to leave them in my boot on Saturday

Gashead · « **Reply #4 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:01 PM »

hunterdubber · « **Reply #5 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:10 PM »

Good on you Sid , you're a thoughtful chap

Like you said , some members , who hadn't tried , or wern't sure what to do

will find this really helpful and hopefully have a go themselves at a bit of resto

Very satisfying too , DIY

Spen69 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:37 PM »

Nice one Si

They look very familiar those rims though - are you doing the hubs too? Some numpty had a go at polishing the rear hub and made a pig's ear of it I'll say

See you saturday for a quick brew - I have a boat-load of frames etc to pick up from Metal Magic finishers

Munnyella · « **Reply #7 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:45 PM »

I am always scared of how far to go with removing scratches, shall look forward the finish here, got some rims to do in the new year.

markyp · « **Reply #8 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:46 PM »

kin ell si,looks like your playing a game of operation with all those little pick things

sid1972 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 02, 2010, 11:29 PM »

thanks guys - I will keep it running

Quote from: munnyella on December 02, 2010, 09:45 PM

I am always scared of how far to go with removing scratches, shall look forward the finish here, got some rims to do in the new year.

Start off with the smoothest file and try to keep it flat - it is difficult to file it all away, trust me

Spen - sorted front hub out and defo for a cup of tea.

Rulin · « **Reply #10 on:** December 03, 2010, 12:17 AM »

just started to look at my concave 48s with redline hubs for re store looking farward to more posts

brettypeeps · « **Reply #11 on:** December 03, 2010, 12:29 AM »

This has the potential to be a great post

Good on you

NORTY40 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 03, 2010, 12:35 AM »

Looking forward to the progress on these Sid

sid1972 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 03, 2010, 05:23 PM »

Stage 2:

I 'm now happy that all of the deep marks are out - they look patchy to say the least, but ready for the next stage.

This is the secret solution, most use 'Oven Pride', which contains about 17% caustic soda and it's this that removes the anno not the rest of the crap in it. You can get this from any chemist, just read the label and respect it! I get as many items together as possible and then use the liquid to clean the drains after as well. It's cheaper and it will take about 1 to 2 hrs to strip the rims, not over night!

Other Items you need; Gloves,mask,googles, mixing stick and a plastic container you can stand the rims in.

I stand them up, so I have more control rather than having the rims submerged, it also keeps them separated and allows me to spin each rim as the anno is removed (it's not unusual for one to strip faster than the other).

Put about 4 and half litres of water (warm) in to the tub and mixed about 200g of caustic soda.

Stand back and watch the vapour begin to raise, this is the solution begining to work.

Rotate the wheels, roughly every tens minutes..

It took about 45mins to get the rims totally clean and stripped, rinse everything down with loads of clean water and thats it!!

sid1972 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 04, 2010, 01:24 PM »

Getting there folks!

thanks for the comments also....

animal · « **Reply #15 on:** December 04, 2010, 01:45 PM »

Top thread fella

markyp · « **Reply #16 on:** December 04, 2010, 01:52 PM »

i find it only takes about 20 mins to strip in oven pride si $:-\$

ozone · « **Reply #17 on:** December 04, 2010, 02:27 PM »

Interesting thread this.

I normally put a couple of bricks or similar in the tub so you use less water and waste less soda. (adding the same amount of soda to less water would strengthen the mix and should speed up the process.

The best setup I have used is a big round tub (like the ones you dye/bleach your tuffs in) with a smaller bucket in the centre (needs a brick or similar inside to stop it floating

) so you have a moat big enough to drop your rims into. No rotating required with that method - just place the rim inside and walk away. Sorted.

sid1972 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 04, 2010, 02:35 PM »

Quote from: markyp on December 04, 2010, 01:52 PM

i find it only takes about 20 mins to strip in oven pride si $:-\$

tbh it depends on the anno - I have stuff thats not shifted for days in 'oven pride' and other stuff thats fell off, this shifts it regardless!! If you submerged the rims it would be quicker (10mins MAX), but only about 6/7 inches of the rim is in the solution for each of the ten minutes slots. Submerging you tend to get a build of a black carbon deposit - it does shift but requires more elbow grease. This for me works the best, it gives me total control and has never failed...

markyp · « **Reply #19 on:** December 04, 2010, 03:16 PM »

i must admit tho rims are the most stubborn to shift ano,it seems that once the colour is off there is also a clear ano to shift as well unlike all the other parts,thats what had hhappened when i sent that set of rims to you si,i hadnt shifted the clear stuff too

sid1972 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 04, 2010, 04:11 PM »

- On some items it's a nightmare

I hope to give a few radster a clear guide on one way of making this resto achievable - like you I have felt like taking a sledge hammer to stuff

Resto is the best part of it for me

Now give me some sneaky pictures of your build

markyp · « **Reply #21 on:** December 04, 2010, 04:19 PM »

ive got nothing to show si except two boxes of bits designated to each build,one frameset is at the chromers

goose0148 · « **Reply #22 on:** December 04, 2010, 09:37 PM »

Cool! nice to see life put back into the used vharacteristic parts insteaf of fitting NOS parts

brettypeeps · « **Reply #23 on:** December 04, 2010, 10:09 PM »

Looking good stripped of the anno. 45 minute seems reasonable to me. I thought you would have had to put some elbow grease in to get the anno off. Great Job