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Author Topic: mongoose resto finished  (Read 5323 times)

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fmx

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mongoose resto finished
« on: June 13, 2010, 07:43 PM »
recently got this mongoose m1 frame, forks and handlebars off ebay. It's an 87 model, but i intend to resto it with traditional early 80's decals (don't like the late 80's look at all). It didn't cost much and it will be used as a rider.

I have almost striped the handlebars of the horrible green colour using nitromors and wet n dry. I would really appreciate some advice re the painting of the bars, frame and forks. Having striped the bars of the green colour, I then got to thinking would the green colour be ok to use as a base coat for the top coat. I intend to rattle can it white (norty40 was my inspiration with his white rattle can goose).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

« Last Edit: October 08, 2010, 03:51 PM by fmx »

dan-dare

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2010, 07:48 PM »
take the skater-boy stickers off, and then gently t-cut it back to life. :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch:

bmxbob

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2010, 07:52 PM »
i was going to buy that, my plan was to build it up `as is` add some white skyways for the survivor look.

and maybe add more stickers, stickerbomb!

Bob

A quick rub down and rattle can it will be great, i can recommend Hammerite smooth spray paint  :daumenhoch:

fmx

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2010, 08:22 PM »
pm sent Bob

Offline NORTY40

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2010, 10:29 PM »
Glad I have inspired someone   :D  :LolLolLolLol:

First of all mate what i would say is if it is going to be a rider i would recommend getting it powder coated as it is alot more durable and will resist everyday knocks and scrapes a lot better than a rattle can job  . ;)

If you want to have a go at Rattle canning it and it sounds like you fancy having a bash   this is what i do :

The intial preparation work is the most important , if it's a chrome frame it needs roughing up slightly so the paint will key to it.  If it's a painted frame you can either strip it back ( Nitromors etc) or if it is in decent condition just flat it down with 800's then 1200's wet and dry.  On really bad condition frames you may have to use a coarser grade of wet and dry. Once you are happy with that you can fill any big dents/dings with car body filler , dont go overboard though    Go over the whole frame with some 1200's wet and dry .

Once you are happy with the prep work give the frame a wipe down with some thinners or panel wipe on  a lint free cloth.

Ready for primer ,  put the can in a jug of hot water , taking it out to give it a good shake for 2mins or so then back in the water until you are ready to spray. It is worth using an etch or high build primer as this will fill any minor imperfections in the frame . An etch primer is a must on chrome frames  ;)

The trick is not to apply too much paint all in one go. Start with a light dusting gradually building up the paint . Concentrate on the complicated area's first like the bottom bracket,rear brake bridge and seatpost area then do the main tubes. Always keep the spray head depressed and move in a sweeping motion across the frame as i find short burst's of the spray head lead to too much paint being applied in one area at one time ( runs and sags   )   Once you are happy the frame is completely covered , i usually do 3/4 coats , flat it all down again with some fine wet and dry (1200's or finer )  If you do get any runs or sags it is not the end of the world as they can be flatted out once the paint has dried .

Top coat ,  once again the golden rule is less is more , don't apply too much paint at any one time . Build up the layers and let the paint dry slightly in between coats . I normally do 4 coats .

Once you are happy with the overall coverage and colour , flat it all down again with some very fine wet and dry ( keep the paper wet ) and then wipe down and use a cutting compound or T'cut to really bring the colour out and get that really smooth finish .  Use a decent wax/polish and buff it up until it gleams  ;)

Hope this helps mate , if you have any questions feel free to send me a PM.    I probably have missed something but I am fed up of typing now  

Good luck and get some pics up .   A  before , during and after ongoing goose resto thread  :daumenhoch: .  

  

or just get it powdered     :LolLolLolLol:    In which case Super Bike Dan's ya man  ;)


Joff :)
 

 
« Last Edit: June 14, 2010, 12:37 AM by NORTY40 »
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trasher

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2010, 10:50 PM »
can you run through that again joff  :-\

Offline NORTY40

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2010, 11:35 PM »
can you run through that again joff  :-\

French or German Glen  ???











TW4t  :LolLolLolLol:
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fmx

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #7 on: October 08, 2010, 02:38 PM »
Well i finally finished it from the above green colour. Quite pleased with the result, but really struggling connecting the brake cable to the shimano sx 2 finger lever. I really am an amateur, any help would be appreciated, drawings and diagrams will probably be necessary for this dufus.





Offline markyp

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #8 on: October 08, 2010, 02:42 PM »
that turned out nice fella.dont worry about the brake cable,i know nothing either!!! :laugh:
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Offline jimwise68

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #9 on: October 08, 2010, 02:42 PM »
Good effort, that has turned out lovely  :daumenhoch:

Offline kdw712

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #10 on: October 08, 2010, 02:52 PM »
wow

what a great job  :daumenhoch:
cheers Kev
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Offline crazycraig

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Re: mongoose resto advice
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2010, 02:55 PM »
Glad I have inspired someone   :D  :LolLolLolLol:

First of all mate what i would say is if it is going to be a rider i would recommend getting it powder coated as it is alot more durable and will resist everyday knocks and scrapes a lot better than a rattle can job  . ;)

If you want to have a go at Rattle canning it and it sounds like you fancy having a bash   this is what i do :

The intial preparation work is the most important , if it's a chrome frame it needs roughing up slightly so the paint will key to it.  If it's a painted frame you can either strip it back ( Nitromors etc) or if it is in decent condition just flat it down with 800's then 1200's wet and dry.  On really bad condition frames you may have to use a coarser grade of wet and dry. Once you are happy with that you can fill any big dents/dings with car body filler , dont go overboard though    Go over the whole frame with some 1200's wet and dry .

Once you are happy with the prep work give the frame a wipe down with some thinners or panel wipe on  a lint free cloth.

Ready for primer ,  put the can in a jug of hot water , taking it out to give it a good shake for 2mins or so then back in the water until you are ready to spray. It is worth using an etch or high build primer as this will fill any minor imperfections in the frame . An etch primer is a must on chrome frames  ;)

The trick is not to apply too much paint all in one go. Start with a light dusting gradually building up the paint . Concentrate on the complicated area's first like the bottom bracket,rear brake bridge and seatpost area then do the main tubes. Always keep the spray head depressed and move in a sweeping motion across the frame as i find short burst's of the spray head lead to too much paint being applied in one area at one time ( runs and sags   )   Once you are happy the frame is completely covered , i usually do 3/4 coats , flat it all down again with some fine wet and dry (1200's or finer )  If you do get any runs or sags it is not the end of the world as they can be flatted out once the paint has dried .

Top coat ,  once again the golden rule is less is more , don't apply too much paint at any one time . Build up the layers and let the paint dry slightly in between coats . I normally do 4 coats .

Once you are happy with the overall coverage and colour , flat it all down again with some very fine wet and dry ( keep the paper wet ) and then wipe down and use a cutting compound or T'cut to really bring the colour out and get that really smooth finish .  Use a decent wax/polish and buff it up until it gleams  ;)

Hope this helps mate , if you have any questions feel free to send me a PM.    I probably have missed something but I am fed up of typing now  

Good luck and get some pics up .   A  before , during and after ongoing goose resto thread  :daumenhoch: .  

  

or just get it powdered     :LolLolLolLol:    In which case Super Bike Dan's ya man  ;)


Joff :)
 

 

You do all that on a shitty mongoose rider  :shocked: Thats dedication right there !  :LolLolLolLol:
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Offline bobafett

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2010, 04:14 PM »

Good work mate came out nice  :)

mongoositis - an expensive disease......

bmxbob

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2010, 04:38 PM »
nice n clean mate, i love a Goose me like  :coolsmiley:

Offline stevochb

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #14 on: October 08, 2010, 05:32 PM »
Like the paint job, nice rider :daumenhoch:

Offline NORTY40

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2010, 06:01 PM »
Turned out really good mate   :daumenhoch:

Did you end up rattle canning it  ???



  :D  :LolLolLolLol:

First of all mate what i would say is if it is going to be a rider i would recommend getting it powder coated as it is alot more durable and will resist everyday knocks and scrapes a lot better than a rattle can job  . ;)

 

 

You do all that on a shitty mongoose rider  :shocked: Thats dedication right there !  :LolLolLolLol:

No Craig , like I said in the first sentence, if it was for as you put it ''a shitty mongoose rider'' I would get it powdered  ;)

If it's for one of my spray jobs I always believe in ....... If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing it right   ;)   

We can't all afford CW phaze 1's mate  ::)
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Offline crazycraig

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #16 on: October 08, 2010, 06:03 PM »
Dont worry fella things will look up .................. ::)
Old School BMX only
Cash is King
Your not famous because you have a BMX so dont expect me to lick your arse for bits !!! I will leave that to the sheep
Jim'll fix it did loads for charity

Offline bobafett

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #17 on: October 08, 2010, 06:08 PM »

We can't all afford CW phaze 1's mate  ::)


You don't want one of them Joff - they've got a kink in the down tube  :shocked: :LolLolLolLol:

mongoositis - an expensive disease......

fmx

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #18 on: October 09, 2010, 03:27 PM »
Thanks for the comments guys

Offline Macmania

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #19 on: October 09, 2010, 03:47 PM »
Great job, well done  :daumenhoch:
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Offline ED209

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Re: mongoose resto finished
« Reply #20 on: October 09, 2010, 07:03 PM »
Dunno who had this frame before but the Casino sticker is from the skateshop I used to run with Andy Simpson in Leicester and designed by my homie Mr Jago.

...so thats one 'skater boy' sticker that I'm always happy to see.



...as for the resto I think you've done a top job - looks lovely with the Skyways and CompIIIs
Good work fella  :daumenhoch:
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